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Choosing reamers - please help

I've been looking at the kind of models/tools I want to build (currentl

the ME beam engine, followed by Rob Roy and some of George Thomas Myford gizmos) and I need to buy a decent set of reamers. I'm happy t use D-bits and other, similar techniques for one-off solutions, but s much of what I need to do consists of straight-through reamed bore that the reamer set option makes most sense. I could buy them one at time - as and when - but I've decided to do it in one hit and go fro

1/16 to a 1/2" in 1/32" jumps. It works out cheaper, even if a few od sizes may not see any action. Just three questions:

  1. Anyone used Tracey Tools' reamers? I'm sure they are fine, bu confirmation would be nice.

  2. Which kind of reamer is best for a relatively inexperienced, bu reasonably competent model engineer with a Myford S7/Amolco mil attachment/Fobco drill? Should I be looking at hand reamers or machin reamers? I can't see myself doing many blind holes, so the sligh lead-in taper on the hand reamers doesn't concern me. The MT2 shanks o the machine reamers sound attractive in terms of accurate mounting, bu relatively inflexible in terms of use. Machine/hand, straigh shank/taper – what is likely to suit me best?

  1. Is there any thing else I should be considering?

As always, your help and advice is much appreciated

Cheers

Mat

-- Myford Mat

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Myford Matt
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All the tooling I've had from TT has proved to be good value for money. No problems.

I'd be inclined to go for m/c reamers although hand do have some advantages if doing bench work. If you can get yourself a floating reamer holder.

I'm sure others will provide even more enlightenment.

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briano

Thanks briano - not heard of floating reamer holders before. Is this th

fella:

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Cheers

Mat

-- Myford Mat

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Myford Matt

If the machine is rigid and everything dead on centre then morse taper mounts make sense. However, for home shop use I think chuck mounted reamers are more flexible, both literally and figuratively. If you hold a reamer on just the last 10mm it gives it a bit of flexibility which helps you align to a drilled hole which may not be running dead concentric. Also chuck mounting reamers have a square on the end so you can use them by hand in a tap holder. Useful for cleaning up holes which have got rust, dirt or a burr in them.

For most holes where very high tolerances aren't required you can get very close by double drilling. Drill to within a few thou and then run the final size drill through at a slow speed so it doesn't chatter or pull to one side. Much cheaper than reamers of course but not quite so accurate.

Adjustable hand reamers are great for finishing double drilled holes to the last few tenths. T&J are the best but the Interstate ones from J&L are also excellent and use the same blades but at half the price. They blunt fairly fast though and spare blades are usually nearly as dear as the whole tool.

Emery cloth in a split stick is the poor man's reamer and quite adequate for taking a couple of thou out of a hole until a test piece (go/no-go gauge) slides through.

Finally, be aware that reamers generally cut slightly oversize. Half a thou over is the average tolerance on a small hole. Drill bits used at a slow speed with double drilling usually cut on the small side so they are often better for a hole which needs to be a press fit for a dowel pin.

-- Dave Baker

Reply to
Dave Baker

Yeah. That's what I meant. Dread to think how much they cost new nowadays though.

Reply to
briano

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