Hi all.
Thanks for all the replies about rust in my workshop. I'll have a good think
of what next to do to rid the rust.
No-one picked up upon the question about how I can get rid of the rust on
the bed of the milling machine. Although I sprayed the machine vey well
with WD40, the bed has become quite rusty. Would it be safe to use very
fine wet'n'dry or steel wool to clean it up? I'm sure the rust is only
superficial. Strangely, the lathe bed (Myford) isn't rusty at all ! Could
that be the difference between Iron and Steel?
Incidentally, Dave is my name, Brad is my nickname.
Cheers.
it's gone rusty because of the wd40
you used way oil on your lathe
you used wd40 on your mill
so wipe the mill down with hydraulic oil ...hydraulic is the same as
way oil without the tackfiers .
wd 40 will hold moisture ...
you can use scotch bright to clean your mill.
or 00 wire wool
all the best...markj
it's gone rusty because of the wd40
you used way oil on your lathe
you used wd40 on your mill
so wipe the mill down with hydraulic oil ...hydraulic is the same as
way oil without the tackfiers .
wd 40 will hold moisture ...
you can use scotch bright to clean your mill.
or 00 wire wool
all the best...markj
Cheers for that, I really appreciate your advise. It makes sense about WD40
and the amount of condensation in the workshop sending tings rusty. I'm not
so worried now.
Many thanks.
Brad.
<snip>
Hmm, first time I've ever heard that said about WD40, considering that
it was designed primarily as a water dispersant for electrical
circuits etc. In fact it's first use was in the USA space/defence
programme as a water displacer and corrosion inhibitor...
Now I don't normally suggest that people read Wikipeadia, do to the
gross unreliability of the facts contained within (due to the policy
of allowing anyone edit without first proving their knowledge) but
this brief page on WD-40 is very close to the fact that have been
known for over 40 years - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
I suppose what might be the problem is the cheapo imitations that are
around that claim to have some of the same properties as WD-40, many
of these do indeed contain a high degree of water as they are not
actually marketed as water displacers, being just penetrating oils
instead. The other problem is, as Trevor has pointed out, WD-40 is
very good at removing other oils too...
I think the problem lies in the fact that as WD-40 is a water dispersant, it
seems to do this by forming a solution/mixture/emulsion with the water,
everything else evaporates fast leaving just the water behind.
I use WD-40 only when I need a solvent, not a lubricant - locally (Australia) we
use RP-3 as a longer term thin lubricant (locks, firearms etc where powdered
graphite won't always do the job). I wipe off the WD-40 after it's done the job
& lubricate with oil, or spray with lanoguard (lanoline spray) if I need to
prevent ways rusting.
--
Karen
If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible warning.'
No, it doesn't leave the water behind, if it did that it wouldn't be a
water dispersant!
<snip>
I only use WD-40 when I want to remove water from hard to reach areas,
when I need a solvent I use a solvent <g>...The problem with WD-40 and
rusting is because the solvent it contains also removes any oil that
is coating the part, if you need to protect from corrosion after
dispersing water you need to either recoat with oil or some other
sealing agent.
Just how much money can you afford to burn? Waste? Throw away?
Work out the cost per liter of that stuff!
Read the label. The stuff I have says that it's 20 weight oil.
Buy a liter of non-detergent oil and save yer coin for tools.
Cheers
Trev
Dave, as Mark said earlier, you can use scotchbrite pads to get rid of
the rust. Avaialble in several different grades from fairly abrasive
to non-abrasive 'polishing' grade. Have a look at the J&L site and
type scotchbrite in for the search.
For rust prevention of tooling in medium or longer term storage, I can
happily recommend a product which although quite expensive, is very
effective indeed.
In the injection moulding business we spray all the working surfaces
of our *extremely* expensive mould tools with a moisture guard product
when they come out the machine and before they go onto the storage
racks. Bear in mind these mould tools often have a very high diamond
polished surface finish, and a 0.2mm diameter spot of rust can mean a
rejected part and an expensive re-polish of the tool, so the stuff we
use has to be 100% effective.
The products we use are made by either Ambersil or Rocol, and these
spray a thin waxy film over the surface that displaces and repels
water and totally prevents rust. We have some mould tools stored
outside in a 20ft container for 2years, where the outside of the tool
rusted, but the working surfaces were as bright as new.
Links here:
Ambersil
http://www.crcind.com/csp/web/ProdDisp.csp?lng=3&country=GB&product=MOULD%20PROTECTIVE%20GREEN&brand=AMBERSIL
Rocol
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R 96271
Not cheap, but a single can goes quite a long way, and compared to the
many £000's that a mould tool costs, a cheap solution for us.
Peter
for the ultimate protection ....
they don't tout this with their product
back to black silicone spray ...
it works very very well as a rust protectant
but has side effects ...
they are ...
if you ever do any painting in your workshop .......it will prevent
paint sticking to any surface ........even in the minutest quantities.
the stuff will coat every surface in the workshop (from the mist
drift) .....so can get on to all metals ...unknowingly ...preventing
you painting them properly in the future.
think that's why you don't see these polymer silicone sealants for
cars on the market anymore ...think the auto industry outlawed
them ...because ...they were having failing results with insurance
jobs
so if you don't do any painting ...or plan to ..........you can use
the stuff.
all the best.....markj
<snip>
<google quote>
think that's why you don't see these polymer silicone sealants for
cars on the market anymore ...think the auto industry outlawed
them ...because ...they were having failing results with insurance
jobs
</quote>
Oh YES they do... :~(((((((((((((
You're not doing to well in this thread, are you!
meaning that i must have done well on other threads .so will take that
as a compliment ...thank you .
aha ...the infamous tony morgan or rhyl-on-line ... strikes again .
haven't you got a good word for anyone
and why hide behind a disguise .
the outlawed info passed on to me by a painter friend ...
the stuff is not liked by car sprayers ..
yes you can still get the stuff .....but not as readily available as
it used to be . .
all the best.......mark
<google quotes>
meaning that i must have done well on other threads .so will take that
as a compliment ...thank you .
aha ...the infamous tony morgan or rhyl-on-line ... strikes again .
haven't you got a good word for anyone
and why hide behind a disguise .
the outlawed info passed on to me by a painter friend ...
the stuff is not liked by car sprayers ..
yes you can still get the stuff .....but not as readily available as
it used to be . .
all the best.......mark
</quote>
Well one out of five is not bad.
I'm not sure if you have been correct in any other thread so can't
comment but considering your comments in this thread I'm not holding
much hope...
I'm not Tony Morgan (what ever did happen to him, he just vanished one
day - mid discussion IIRC)...
I'm not in disguise, I've been posting as the same person for the last
9 years (spam traps don't count), and where I have changes 'username'
to it's been clearly flagged...
Nothing has been 'outlawed' (I can't think of a single product that
has been banned, no wait, - there are two that come to mind - Carbon
tetra-chloride (sp?) based brake cleaner and solvent based paint), I
suspect that what your 'friend' meant was that any product that
contains silicon has been 'outlawed' from the paint-shop that he works
in (as it will have been in any paint-shop)...
Agreed, auto-painter sprayers don't like silicon, wow you got that one
right!
Wrong, many auto' products that contain silicon are still available
off the shelf in Halfords etc. - even the mentioned "Back to Black" -
even worse are those 'Colour-back' and 'Glass shine' silicon sealers
(waxes) for car paint work...
Heres one you may not know about ,Lanolin its very good at protecting
against
rust good for timber also some say for the skin but experience
has shown me at
least one who was alergic to it , the old mixture of
steam cylinder oil mixed
with a little kero is a good long term
protector.
protecting
experience
And another little known fact: historically the major source of
lanolin was the sewers of Bradford, where the wool trade would wash
wool and the wool lanolin would be in the wash water. Does Bradford
still have a wool trade or have we lost that as well as everything
else?
AWEM
On Fri, 11 Apr 2008 18:04:08 +0100, "Andrew Mawson"
Did you also know that the Esholt (Bradford) sewage works, a very
large site, had (has?) its own railway system and had at least one but
ISTR two steam locos which were fired on recovered 'wool grease'?
Cheers
Tim
If the peoples of third world countries can use camel dung as a cooking
fuel, is there any reason why the human equivalent can't be used to fire
those locos in the sewage works? The fuel would be free but I can't say I
fancy being a stoker there.
Cliff Coggin.
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