Some while ago, I used some no-more-nails type stuff to attach a metal
(chromed) soap dish thing to the ceramic-tiled splashback behind the
it's fallen off again, although it stayed there for a while.
any recommendations for better glue for this purpose? It's got a "foot"
about 40mm dia., and has to carry the weight of the dish and a bar of soap.
screwing it to the wall is not practical, since the tiles would have to be
drilled, which is not easy, and the wall behind is lath-and-plaster, so
screws don't guarantee to hit anything solid.
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
Not sure about the glue - maybe one designed for gluing to glass would
work better. Also, if you scratch the surface of the tiles the adhesion
might be better.
I have found drilling tiles is fine provided that you make a good
scratch at the desired point with a glass cutter (tap gently with
hammer), then use a masonry drill (with hammer action switched off,
obviously) until the tile is penetrated. Then one of the special
thingies for attaching screws to plasterboard should work. Trouble with
lath and plaster, I found, is that if you hit a lath it tends to get
pushed away by the drill bit.
If all else fails, the nice holes should act as a good key for the
Those sticky pads used for attaching rear view mirrors to car windscreens
should do the trick. However last time one of those came off I used Araldite
instead and that worked fine and provided a more rigid bond. You'll get a
better key if you abrade the glaze on the tile and the chrome on the dish
before sticking it on.
Actually it reminds me of a couple of nasty cheapo own brand air fresheners
I bought from Asda when I was working away from home for a few weeks last
year and staying at a colleague's house while he was abroad. They came with
sticky pads attached so you could put them on tiles or glass. I stuck one in
the bathroom under a glass shelf and one in the kitchen on the stainless
steel cooker hood. The smell from them was awful. Far worse than that of
anything I was actually buying them to mask.
I tried to get them off again and that was when the problems started. The
one in the bathroom came off the glass shelf eventually although I was close
to thinking the shelf was going to break before the pad had shifted and I
cleaned up the excess bits of glue with a nylon scourer pad but the one
stuck to the cooker hood refused to budge. I was pulling hard enough to
start buckling the stainless steel and the effing thing still wouldn't
shift. I didn't want to gouge at it with a knife so I worked away at it one
corner at a time until finally it ripped free leaving big chunks of pad and
glue on the cooker hood which similarly refused to budge.
I tried 'rolling' them off a bit at a time with a finger, scraping at them
with softish things like toothbrush handles and a wooden thing I found in a
kitchen drawer, I tried adding washing up liquid and every other liquid I
could find under the sink but in the end the only way was to scrub away at
it with a nylon scouring pad and finally with the help of that and some Jif
or similar I got all the bloody stuff off. However when I stepped back and
saw the results of my handiwork under the light to my horror where I'd been
rubbing the scourer had turned the uniform and previously faultless brushed
matt satin finish of the stainless steel cooker hood into a shiny polished
patch which glared balefully back at me like a winking eye.
God knows how much it would have cost to replace the cooker hood so I had to
mask the damage somehow. I tried roughing that bit back up again with a new
scouring pad which helped a bit but not enough. I contemplated sandpaper but
figured I stood more chance of ruining the thing completely. In the end I
got a chair out so I could reach all of the hood and spent the whole night
working away at every side of it with the scourer until I'd turned the whole
bloody thing into a more shiny version of its previous self that the
polished patch blended into. As dawn finally broke I stepped off the chair
exhausted but unless you knew what had happened and exactly where to look
the damage was near as dammit invisible.
That's the last time I ever use anything with a sticky pad attached to it
and also the last time I use nylon scouring pads on metal which apparently
they are much tougher than. So if you can find a couple of own brand Asda
air fresheners and utilise the sticky pads on them I think you'll be able to
glue your soap dish to the wall in such a way it'll never move again.
When the guy got back from abroad he actually sold the house a few weeks
later without me hearing anything about it so it seems I got away with it.
It's not a night I want to remember though.
I wanted some acetone to soften a rectangular PVC conduit (50mm x
200mm) before using normal solvent weld to seal in a plug at one end.
In the US it seems you use a purple coloured primer (acetone and MEK)
but I couldn't find it anywhere here in the UK. Our solvent weld
pipes are of a softer or pre softened PVC, but the conduit PVC won't
take solvent weld very well.
I eventually bought 0.25L of pure(ish) acetone from a beauty supplies
place - Sally's, I think. Apparently its used to remove false finger
nails - the finger tips are immersed in the acetone for 15 min and
then the nails are peeled off. H&S minded people should all suck
through their teeth at this thought.
Softening the conduit with the acetone worked a treat and I now have a
tall slim coolant tank that fits neatly along side the lathe stand,
tucked behind the front leg.
I've since found acetone to be the most wonderful substance ever. It
shifts all sorts of stubborn glues and marks, permanent marker pens,
names and addresses on poly bags (ME and MEW etc) that can't go
through the shredder.
Returning to the original topic, I used impact adhesive to fix up a
small plastic hook to hold the end of the shower curtain to prevent
splashes sneaking around the end and onto the carpet. Its been in
place for at least 10yrs.
You can also get it from model aeroplane shops like SMC
<http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk . Fibretech also sell it but it doesn't
seem to be listed on their website <http://www.fibretechgb.co.uk .
In my lab days we used to use the stuff by the gallon for cleaning
glassware - it is an excellent solvent for most organic chemicals. In
those days (early 1970s) we used to chuck it down the sink, which would
probably get you time in chokey these days.
Oh that works too, but it's not what I meant. Shake excess water off,
rinse with a good slosh of acetone, chuck the acetone down the sink -
and wait ten seconds for the remaining acetone, with most of the
remaining water, to evaporate.
20 seconds to dry glassware, rather than 20 minutes, For when you are in
a real hurry. :)
-- Peter Fairbrother
Not really practical for the job your doing, but a can of Polycell expanding
foam must the stickiest substance I've ever come across. I've stuck
windowsills to brickwork, doorframes to walls etc. Also sticks to fingers
pretty good. Bob
I've been equally successful in gluing a heavy three-container
shower gel dispenser to a tiled wall with common old silicone from a
tube....and that was at least fifteen years ago. It's hasn't moved, and
neither have we :)
Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier way!"
I agree - I've used the stuff in all manner of applications after
noting how infernally sticky it is. I glued a fibreglass bumper on a
car with the stuff after the mounts rotted off. It's still on, several
You can buy a low expansion version of the foam - and I'd recommend a
trial run with a couple of bits of wood to see exactly how much you'd
need before it starts to ooze out of the joint.
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
Aaarggh. Don't mention that stuff in my presence.
Got some on my (signed) John Lennon T-shirt, and it's never come off.
Doesn't get washed or worn much, but !!!
(and even messed up, you'll get it over my cold dead body; and those of
my heirs too, if the bickering is anything to go by. Though they seem
more interested in my Google T-shirt right now, but I don't think that
Austin might use a urethane glue, maybe Gorilla glue though I've never
used it, or car windscreen glue (the type that comes in sealant
cartridges and is used to hold the glass in place, not the tiny tubes
which are use for car mirrors - but some need a primer too).
However the latter especially may be overkill for one soap dish.
-- Peter Fairbrother
(but remember rule 37: "There is no 'Overkill.' There is only 'Open
Fire' and 'Time To Reload.'")
(I'm unsure whether the last phrase should be hyphenated - but it's
Hello Austin have you been into B & Q lately because they have a range
of wire mesh type bathroom soap dishes that you hold up by two
suction pads that are about 40 mm Dia they are designed to attach with
the suckers then screw a cap on that tightens it up, I have tried one
of these units in my shower cubicle in my caravan as I didn't want to
drill any holes and they hold up very well with a Bottle of shower
gell and Shampoo. Well worth a look at Cheers Colin
On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 14:32:49 +0100, Austin Shackles
One of the most effective adhesives I know for attaching stuff to
tiling is silicone bath sealant. I used it to attach the metal frame
of a shower cubicle to the tiling & the only way to remove it when I
came to replace the shower was by cutting through the joint.
You would have to support it in place while the sealant cures, but
should work a treat.
Aquarium silicone. People use it to hold fishtanks together, and there's
a whole lot of weight of water in one of those. Ordinary acetic (the
type which smells strongly of vinegar) silicone sealant will probably
do, but aquarium silicone is better, and not much more expensive.
Maybe stick it on the cross junction between four tiles,
after removing the tile grout? - but this may not be aesthetically pleasing.
-- Peter Fairbrother
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