Good quality 80mm lathe chucks, machine vices and tools for a Hobbymat MD65?

Hi all,
Well, my Hobbymat MD65 mini-lathe is doing sterling service now it's been
treated to a decent "CLA" (clean, lubricate and adjust) session. The
tailstock jams if you accidentally pull it in past zero and there's a bit
of backlash on the horizontal leadscrew, but that's about it. Certainly
nothing that would prevent it from being used.
Problem is, now I find myself in a predicament: I don't have the external
jaws for the Polish-made three-jaw Hobbymat chuck... and I need to turn a
1-5/8in. diameter aluminium rod down to a more reasonable size and put a
few centred holes in it. Naturally this thing is just slightly too large
for the internal jaws...
The externals aren't available as a spare part, so I'm looking to get a
second chuck (possibly two, a 3jaw self-centering and a 4-jaw independent
plus a dial indicator). You can probably predict my question, but I'll
ask it anyway... :)
Can anyone suggest a decent quality chuck for my MD65?
The standard chuck is an 80mm diameter thing with three M6 bolts
protruding from the rear face (at 120-degree angles from each other) for
fixing. These bolts are pushed through the faceplate and secured with
nuts on the rear. I'd prefer this type of fixing if at all possible;
installing bolts from the back of the faceplate would be tricky at best
(and possibly involve at least partly disassembling the spindle section,
which is Not Fun At All).
As I recall, the faceplate has six holes drilled into it at various
spacings. There's a photo here:
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I have no idea if it'll take the four-screw fittings the four-jaw chucks
seem to use, but it'll certainly take a chuck with the three-screw mount.
I've also read that it's possible to install a 100mm chuck using an
adapter backplate, so that's another possibility (if I can find a
suitable backplate).
I've been looking at three chucks --
Chronos - "Imported" chucks and "Soba" branded
RDG - HBM? (Indian made apparently, and AIUI not very good quality)
Does anyone have any experiences with these? Are they up to much, or
should I be looking elsewhere?
I'm also after a suitable machine vice for the milling bracket -- the
manual specifies "50mm opening" but says nothing about the mounting
requirements. So if anyone can suggest a reasonably good quality machine
vice suitable for an MD65, I'd appreciate it if you could share the
details with me :)
Lastly, I'd appreciate it if someone could suggest some decent turning
tools. I've used the Soba ones from Chronos (the ones which come in the
blue plastic box) but haven't had much luck with them.
Reply to
Philip Pemberton
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In article , Philip Pemberton writes
You might try asking Rotagrip if they can supply external jaws for the chuck, if there is enough detail of the maker. They proved very resourceful when I needed some a couple of years ago.
Reply to
David Littlewood
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It looks as if the chucks that fit the Chinese mini-lathes would fit your machine. I have bought a selection of chucks (self centring and independent) both 80mm and 100mm with adaptor from ArcEuro and have not had any problems with their accuracy, eg see the selection on:
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Give them a ring on 011626955693, I've always found Ketan to be very helpful.
Reply to
Alan Dawes
If the new chuck requires bolts get some M6 socket set screws (grub screws) of suitable length and use them as studs. Works well on the SMEE training lathe supplies by Arc Euro.--
Regards Roger Woollett
Reply to
Roger Woollett
Unfortunately I don't have a dead centre, only a live centre.
I suppose I could make one, though I think my only spare piece of steel round bar is slightly two small to make a suitably sized Morse taper for the headstock.
Reply to
Philip Pemberton
Looks like that's two suggestions for the Arc Euro chucks then :)
I'll be having a word with them and Rotagrip on Monday morning.
Reply to
Philip Pemberton
Just stick a bit of bar in the chuck and turn the 60 degree centre. Use right angle type dog and drive off the chuck jaw face.
-- Richard
Reply to
Richard Edwards
Until you can get some new jaws or chuck, why not file 3 flats on the end of the rod so that it can be held in the chuck (assuming the rod is longer than the finished item), put a centre in the tailstock and then turn down the rod to size. Hopefully it will now have a small enough radius so that you can reverse it and it will fit the chuck.
Reply to
Alan Dawes
Just a minor point (although it gets me extremely worked up)...
A dead centre is one that stays stationary, while the work rotates on it. Normally hardened.
A live centre is one that rotates with the work. Normally soft and in the headstock.
A rotating centre is one that has bearings so that it can act as a live centre whilst mounted in a stationary fixture (e.g.. the tailstock).
Mark Rand RTFM
Reply to
Mark Rand
So, if I'm turning between center and I take a center (a morse taper shaft with a point on it) and put it in the headstock, it's a live center - and if I put the same bit of metal (center) in the tailstock it's a dead center?
I see your point, but this may be one of those situations where even if you're right, you're still wrong ...
-- Peter Fairbrother
Reply to
Peter Fairbrother
That's exactly it :-) It's not the thing, it's what it's doing!
If one were shopping for the item or labeling the boxes in the stores in the days before the language got debased, one would have hard centres; soft centres and rotating centres.
Simples :-)
Only problem is that since so few people do turning between centres these days, no one seems to sell soft centres any more any one needs to make them out of a bit of bar or a blank arbour.
Note:- the reason for the live centre being soft is so that one can true it up after inserting in the headstock.
Mark Rand RTFM
Reply to
Mark Rand

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