Metal engineering models

Hi Group,
I'm interested in getting started on making metal mechanical devices/ model and the like. Problem is I have no engineering background. Wouldn't know how to use a lathe for metal work etc. Any good books anyone can recommend.

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Hi Mark,
Thanks for posting such an interesting selection of video links. I have been working my way through them and in the one above (number 5 on your list) the narrator uses some gauges he calls "angle plates" which are right angled triangular plates with known fixed angles for the hypotenuse (he shows 30 degree, 45 degree and a boxed set of angles up to 30 degree). I have never seen these and I wondered what they are called in the UK ?
Also, in another sequence he holds a round bar in the vice by using a v-block but he puts the bar against the fixed jaw and the v-block against the moving jaw. Surely it makes more sense to put the v-block against the fixed jaw and the bar against the moving jaw in order to prevent the moving jaw trying to rotate around the assemblage ?
Cheers,
Mike Davies

In article
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IIRC, they are called angle blocks or angle gauges. The current issue of MEW reviews a set (which does any whole degrees of angle from 0 to 90) sold by Chester UK. Their website is still under construction and I could see them, but Chronos have some (for a few pounds more) at
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Chronos_Catalogue_Squares___Rules___An gle_Gauges___Parallels___Other_Measuring_Tools_206.html
David

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Davids answered the first ..
bar and v-block ....
he probably does it that way ...and then Wang's the v-block down with a hammer .,..like you are meant to every time you tighten up anything in a vice on a milling machine .
the moving jaw on these vices ...rises up a little bit when you tighten it..........it takes whatever is against the jaw with it.
suppose his reasoning is ...better to hit the hardened v-block then put dents in the soft round bar .
all the best.markj

In article
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I would hope any self-respecting metal mangler has a copper hammer or a block of lead for tapping down without bruising (and a hide or plastic one for soft alloy).
David

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That would explain why whenever I put anything in the milling vice supported by parallels that after tightening, the parallels slide out so easily as though they were not in contact.
Presumably it is a rubber mallet to which you refer, else there'd be a dnage of shattering the vice or of throwing off splinters from the hammer?

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The perils of typing with one hand and dunking Ginger Nuts with the other ...
"danger"

wrote:
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That would be a copper faced hammer........lead hammer .........or dead blow hammer.
all the best.markj

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BTW ...you hammer the workpiece onto the parallels ...dont hammer the vice jaw .
being as you are new
Make sure every time you turn the workpiece over after milling ..that you file off the burrs
Some work requires you to tap the vice handle with a hammer...dont do this if you have a cast iron vice handle.
On knee mills There can be a difference between locked knee and unlocked knee, when you are milling.............decide weather you are going to be milling with a locked knee or unlocked knee ..and tram the head in locked knee or unlocked knee mode....for the most accurate results.
all the best.markj

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Thanks.
Not completely new, just not completely omniscient!

On Fri, 21 Nov 2008 09:48:54 -0000, "Amateur Machinist"
You must be over 18 then ;-)
Regards, Tony

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No Bill, South Cumbria, aka miles from the middle of nowhere.