Q: Stuart 10V Cylinder / Working with castings

Hi all,

I have recently started work on a Stuart 10V (for which I bought the castings a couple of years ago). This is the first time I have made anything from castings. I have studied the 'Building a Vertical Steam Engine' book by Pengwern, but have hit a stumbling block with regards to the cylinder.

Initial clean-up and measurement of the cylinder casting reveals it is 2.6mm oversize on its length, so will need 1.3mm taking off each flange to keep the flanges of equal width. The book states it is desirable to keep the flanges as such. I have since found that the pre-cast inlet and exhaust ports on the port face are not in the centre:- they are displaced 0.9mm towards one flange, and approx 0.5mm to one side of the portface. Obviously, the ports must be on the centreline (between flanges) of the cylinder to allow equal timing on each part of the cycle.

Is it normal to find the port holes to be this far out? What is the correct way of working around this? As I see it, I could:-

1). Take 0.4mm off one flange and 2.2mm off the other to end up with the exhaust port on the centreline of the portface. This will of course leave one cylinder flange a lot thinner than the other. Is this acceptable considering the fixing studs thread into the flange?

2). (Probably a bodge). Fill the as cast port holes with steel loaded epoxy or similar, then re-cut the ports in the correct position.

3). Return the casting for another. Does anybody feel that the amount the ports are displaced by as cast is excessive, or am I expecting too much?

Advice/thoughts much appreciated.

Anthony Remove eight from email to reply. Website:

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Reply to
Anthony Britt
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Anthony

Stuart's castings often leave something to be desired on their tolerances, being usually very close to finished size as cast and with not always a lot of 'meat' to play with to correct minor problems such as you describe. I don't think the half millimetre lateral port offset will be a problem and that you should be able to centralize the ports laterally when you come to machining the cylinder sides.

I think you have two options with regard to the vertical location:

  1. To ask Stuart's to change the casting, which I'm sure that they will do without demur, or
  2. Trim the flanges asymmetrically as you describe and slightly reduce the pitch circle of the fixing studs at one end to bring it within the thickness of the cylinder wall. The narrower flange should still be wide enough for the purpose of supporting the sheet ali lagging.

--

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) ..."There must be an easier way...!"

Reply to
christopher

It sounds as if the Stuart castings are not as good as the ones I used to buy in the 1960s!

Steve R.

Reply to
Steve R.

Would the extra time taken for the steam to go an additional .9mm to to one end of the cylinder be significant compared to the time taken to fill the cylinder volume at whatever (but probably quite long) cut off?

regards

Dave Burrage

Reply to
David Burrage

I doubt if a slight difference in port length will make any noticeable difference on such a small engine as the 10V!

I built the 10V and 10H many yea...............er over 30 years ago!

Steve R.

Reply to
Steve R.

Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about it. The timing is a function of the slide valve (which should be adjustable) and the extra 0.9 mm of steam travel is not an issue on an engine of this size and nature (actually it is probably not even a real issue on highly tuned IC engine). I'd be inclined to machine the flanges equally. Just check that you have enough valve clearance in the steam chest to allow the valve to be offset fractionally - this would not normally be a problem, but I whilst I've built a number of steam engines I have not built a 10V.

Regards

Mark

Reply to
mark.howard10

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