Releasing cross slide handle/thread - HELP!

No! :-) There is another grub-screw on the handle (as far as I can see). Also, there should be some means to adjust the axial play. And that requires (in most cases) some nut. Maybe the ring with the grub-screw is that nut. So try unscrewing it.

HTH, Nick

OK panic over, I came at it from a different angle, that also fixed up the loose nut the slide thread engages in to. So Now I've got everything on the machine bar the turret head, no bug rush there as I've not got the motor back and there's also the back gear issue.

Anyway, new problem is when winding the table back and forth it makes a rather unpleasant sort of soggy crunchy sound (yeah good description I know!) It tends to happen when the tables is towards either end of it's travel. If I disconnect the thread from the table I can move the table back and forth by hand and it's all nice and smooth and silent. If I wind the thread along whilst disconnected from the table it's also nice and quiet. As soon as I connect it back to the table it starts making the noise. I'm pretty sure it didn't do it when I had a quick play when collecting, but I might not have wound it along enough at that time. Any ideas on what I might've done here?

Cheers, Rob

;-)

I just dunno. There's a grub screw on the measuring dial, when released it lets you rotate the dial. I think there's a pin that passes through the back of the handle but I don't really want to bash that out now in case I can't get it back in.

With the grub screw loose in the collar, the collar just spins around the shaft, doesn't unscrew or anything useful like that, I'm a bit stumped. Now idea how I would adjust backlash on the thing but I plan to use digital slides anyway so the backlash won't be important - so lazy I know ;-)

I have found the cause of the horrible noise though:

So I'm pretty much all set now, I got the head on today and squirted oil at various surfaces. Just need the motor back, buy an inverter and sort the back gear out and I'll be ready to make swarf!

Bash it out. It might be tapered, so start at the right side! :-)

If you put on the right DRO (shameless plug). No, you should reduce the backlash as much as possible. But I don't know how it's done on that machine. Maybe on the other end with shims or the like.

It will survive another 100 years! :-) Nice old iron!

Nick

Hello Rob, snip

Wonder if that's causing the same horrid sound and equivalent feel on my Senior Y-axis feedscrew? - one direction only though. , so could be worn feedscrew and or nut.

snip

Looks like the door is well a truly blocked. Matress or hammuk? Glad to see you making headway with the Marlow. Geoff GeoffH (The Pirate) Norfolk - UK not VA

Measure the diameter of the pin on both sides of the handle if you can get at it. Or, at least, compare the diameter of the pin on both sides with a caliper. There is a strong chance that it's a taper pin and will need to be driven "out" rather than "further in".

If you can get the handle off, will the leadscrew come out in the other direction? I'm wondering if there is a thread under the collar at all.

Don't forget to send some pictures to Tony Griffiths for his website!

Regards Mark Rand RTFM

I rather sneakily use the other door ;-) Just off photo to the left. The workshop is basically a single storey outhouse stuck on the back of the house, I guess at one stage it was divided in to two rooms, hence two doors and why half is plastered and the other isn't.

Same here! I got my motor back from being rewired today - very nice job they've done too, had it refurbed as well, so Ace Rewinds in Peterborough get my recommendation. Won a 2hp inverter on Ebay last night - just been sorting out the remote forward/off/reverse switch and speed pot with the seller (Drives Direct). Got a couple of new V-belts coming on Wednesday. New thrust bearing bought last night, so I've just got the back gear to repair and I'll be up and running!!

Mark Rand wrote:

Ooo, I'll have to give it a good scrub up for that!! ;-)

Cheers, Rob