Spray Welding?

Having finally picked up my cheap-as-chips Myford ML7 about 2 weeks ago I got it cleaned up enough to try a few cuts this week and was reasonably pleased that it actually cut quite well and ran pretty smoothly despite my disapointment at its initial appearance.

It had been stood under a tarpaulin for the past 15 years, unused apart from turning the occasional broom handle down, but the tarpaulin itself was under a leaky roof. Luckily the bed and slides were untouched (helped by the 15 year old oils and greases dried into them I am sure) but I had to use a paint scraper to lift the 1/2"+ layer of rust sitting in the tray.

No doubt this was sacrifical swarf cunningly anointed with holy suds and left in situ for just such an occurrence. I digress.

Although the main spindle and bearings seem fine, no obvious play anywhere and the oilers let a nice flood of hydraulic oil through to pool on the tray, the same can't be said of the leadscrew. Neglect (probably) or blocked oil nipples (equally probable) mean that I've got

0=2E006"- 0.008" of uneven wear on both bearing ends of the leadscrew where they run in the oilite bushes. Coupled with a dodgy tooth somewhere in the geartrain I now have a playful leadscrew that likes to do a little hop, skip, and jump every now and then.The bushes are hardly worn at all.

Myford list a new 5/8" leadscrew at =A3136 odd which is actually quite reasonable given the work involved to make one, but of course thats far more than the scrounge-and-borrow attitude wants to pay if avoidable:) So the options would appear to be either turn/grind the bearing surface down locally and make half-shell phospher bronze bearings to fit this (probably not a good idea..) or get the area spray welded and then turn/re-grind it. Having finally got on to the point of my post, has anyone done this on something similar or knows a man who can? John S perhaps.....? Advice, comments, and brickbats welcomed.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Neill
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There used to be a company called Kingston Engineering, based in Kingston upon Hull, who made a line of lead screws, or lead screw blanks.

I don't know any more than that, but it may be worth trying to get in contact and see if they still do things like that.

I had the contact from the days when I ran a small mailing list for Raglan owners in the 1970's.

Peter

PS: Have got your email re the motor at Tim's.

-- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Web:

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Reply to
Peter A Forbes

likes to

avoidable:)

Alternatively the Halifax Rack and Screw Company based not suprisingly in Halifax.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

Sure this isn't some kind of kinky escort agency? ;-)

Regards, Tony

Reply to
Tony Jeffree

It would cost more than £136 to get it spray welded and re-ground, and it would still be an old, slightly worn, leadscrew. Unless you can do this job yourself somehow (bushes of some type?) it would probably be cheaper to get e new leadscrew -or find a better s/hand one. Couldn't you just replace the oilite bshes with custom made ones, a little tighter?

Regards

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Steele

Hi Peter, Try Ebay, I sold two last year, one went for £12.50 the other made £22 something. Both were in very good condition. Regards Rotty

Reply to
Rotty

Don't dream of spray welding or applying any heat to a long thin shaft.

First off it's the 5/8" model of which they did various types. Some were one piece, some were two piece with a brass shear pin at the joint. The joint was where the whirly bit joined the drive end, easy to spot. I always thought these were a better design than the one piece and later designs that stripped gears when something went wrong. In this case you had to wait from days to weeks depending on whether Myfords had enough shillings for the meter.

In this case it's a doddle to whip a new drive end up and fit it taking the screw back to pristine 5/8"

If it's the one piece then it's time to do a mod and get the better design.

Now the tail end, This necks down to take the tail bearing and nut but if it doesn't have the handwheel fitted it has a spacer in it's place. You can get away with replacing the oilite bush with a longer one and a shorter spacer so it runs on an unworn part.

-- Regards,

John Stevenson Nottingham, England.

Visit the new Model Engineering adverts page at:-

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Reply to
John Stevenson

Thanks for all the replies, useful information there. The reason I originally considered spray welding was that I remembered reading about a low temperature (

Reply to
Peter Neill

Glad that the old contacts are still there, they are very useful people to have contact with.

I think we have a new Raglan 5" leadscrew in the workshop at home, bought it for the Littlejohn but didnae fit....

Peter

-- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk

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Reply to
Prepair Ltd

What about turning down the worn end & shrinking or loctiting a steel or CI sleeve onto it?

Cheers Tim

Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service

Reply to
Tim Leech

I did think about that and it probably would have been relatively easy on the 5/8" drive end but the other end was 7/16" with a BSF thread on the end for adjusting the bearing clearance/end play. Could have done it I suppose but thought that the spray-weld/re-cut would have been easier.

Having gone back this evening and re-examined the leadscrew I noticed that the section nearest the H/S had worn the Acme thread round over about 6" so I thought I'd strip it down and measure up prior to making a new one using some leadscrew stock from Kingston Engineering.

Tapped out the 2 roll pins in the collar securing the plain shaft to the leadscrew, gave it a few squirts with plus gas and then some taps with a copper hammer. Wouldn't budge. Wrapped some emery paper round the shaft and then grabbed with some mole grips, tried a few exploratory twists - still wouldnt budge. Gripped a bit tighter and gave it a good heave. Still didn't budge but slipped in the vice soft jaws. Right I thought, little bit of heat to loosen it and try again.

To cut a long story short I had the damn thing up to blue heat with an

18" pair of stilsons on one part and a pair of 10" moles on the other before I could even twist them by 1/8",and they still aren't fully apart. Good job I'd already decided to make a new one I suppose, otherwise I'd be weeping.

Peter

Reply to
Peter Neill

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