Battery power to replace wall power supply?

Many of the battery chemistries discussed have initial actual voltages above

12V for a nominal 12V configuration. If the camera expects regulated 12V these could damage it. I agree it's unlikely, but in light of the scope of the other data and advice being offerred, it is surprising that no one is even concerned about this.

Mitch

Jeff,

The e-mail on your message isn't a valid one. Just go to my web site and use the "Contact Us" link on the bottom of the page to e-mail me.

Thanks,

For the lightest battery in a given volume, the Lithium non-rechargeables wins. Next comes the Eveready Alkaline non-rechargeables, AA size. Rechargeables would not have anywhere as long running time per charge compared to using those alkalines. Perhaps you could plan for the AA size and try the Eveready Alkaline first, and if not satisfied, then try the Panasonic NiCd P-100AASJ (Digikey #P252, Pg 1354) which is rated at 1000mAH, or the Sanyo equivalent (Mouser #639-KR1000AAU, Pg 1322). I think that the Alkalines will do well. Remember, the Roverbot uses them - so that makes for easier shopping.

Good points. I wonder why rechargeables dissipate faster than non-rechargeables?

I think for now I will go with the Eveready Alkaline AA's. I found an 8 pack AA battery holder for cheap at Radio shack and a transformer connector too that fits the camera, so now I get to find out if the camera works off batteries. I'll be hooking it all up tomorrow.

This is going to be part of my DID project (Duck Irritation Device). We've got these ducks in our neighborhood that I feed bread occassionally. My roverbot is going to follow them around and send back video images. I'm betting if I wait long enough I can catch one of them saying "AFLAC" on video.

That would be a gas! As a point of reference, please measure the current drain from that

12V wall wart when the camera is in use and just sitting and waiting. Also, as has been mentioned, also measure the voltage to the camera (both modes). The second part is to satisfy the "worry wart" that implied that a 12V battery could damage the camera. Please post the values for all to see.

"worry wart", very punny, lol. Hey I've never heard of these power adapters being called a wall wart before.

Robert,

What's the easiest way to measure the current drain from the wall wart when the camera is on and idling, and to measure the voltage to the camera? Sounds like I need to buy a gizmo from Radio Shack.

Thanks

Matt,

Other Robert here (OP).

They're called wall warts in the music industry. If you are a musician with a lot of effects boxes (distortion pedal, phaser box, etc.), those wall warts are a pain to attach to a power strip because they don't sit next to each other well (think of the geometry). In fact there are companies that make "wart removers". A wart remove is just a very short power cord, usually about 8" at most, with a flat plastic panel at the end that has a single AC plug outlet. This moves the wall wart away from the power strip and allows you to easily plug multiple effects boxes into a power strip.

Thanks

The fun part is going to come when I make my DID (Duck Irritation Device) an airboat. A long time ago I bought this UFO toy which was basically a big helium baloon with two radio controlled propeller fans in a plastic housing, taped to the bottom of the baloon. I pulled the propeller fans out of the plastic housing and as soon as I get my new connector lead set, I'll be hooking them up to my Lego Mindstorm RCX brick computer. The RCX brick was too heavy to be connected to the helium baloon (that would have been fun!), but I'm betting that in a lightweight small boat; the two fans should make it move pretty fast. I'll put the wireless transmitter camera in the boat too. My biggest design problem is having a failsafe so if a duck gets mad and sinks my boat, I don't lose everything! :)

Thanks

Altronics in Australia sell slim line plugpacks (wall warts), that allow you to have two of them side by side in a double powerpoint.

Regards

Andrew

I am surprised that you do not have a DVM (or a VOM). Depending on (possible) future useage, you could get an el-cheapo VOM from the likes of harbor freight (about $2) or at R.S. (about $25); for a good DVM at prices better than at R.S., try Jameco. Look for meters that have 2 or more current ranges not counting a 10 amp range; the R.S. $15 VOM has only one range (150mA) and may not be adequate for this application. The Jameco DVMs go from about $10 and up.

Now *that* sounds very interesting! One duck to another "It *was* an UFO!. It even talked (quacked) back to me! I swear, I am not going quackers!".

Matt,

Here's where I get mine, they're pretty cheap:

Robert,

Looks like you found out already that I'm way more of a programmer than an electronics guy. :) Although I have soldered together one or two electronics kits in my time.

I just picked up an "auto-ranging" Multimeter from Radio Shack today. It say it measures AC/DC voltage levels, current, and resistance, and has a diode checker. Is that what I need? Not sure what DVM and VOM mean.

Thanks.

Funny you should say that. My next Robosapien movie shows an actual duck attacking my Robosapien.

If you never saw my first Robosapien movie you can see it at:

Be forewarned it's *really* silly.

Yeh, sweet. They are a pain in the ass, even at home. So many things these days are low voltage so they come with one of these things. You'd think someone would design one that can be plugged in next to other ones or other plugs. I also didn't know you could get the wart removers but usually have to resort to 1m or 2m extension cords. You can get powerboards that allow for a couple of them but I still think it would be easier if the bloody things weren't so wide.

Switching regulators are becoming more popular - they are more efficient and smaller (fit next to each other), but somewhat more expensive. My D-Link router came with one which is a good reason to like D-Link. Jameco sells them also (e.g.,

Mitch

It turns out that someone *has* designed narrow wall warts! Jameco carries them; see their 225995, 216442, 249324, 298054, 239564,

190512 and 190511; all 1.8" wide or less. They have others; that list is a sample.