Try this unit:
I have four of the Perfectflite units; never had a failure. IMO, this
unit ranks with the Adept Alts 25 for reliability. Also, it is the only
barometric unit, I know of, with downloadable data. The price is nice
This one also: http://www.transolve.com/Transolve/index.html
The Transolve P-6 can be purchased ready to go, out of the box, $80.00,
or if you are handy with a soldering iron, purchase the kit version,
%58.00. I purchased one of the units used on ROL, maybe three years ago.
It has at least two dozen flights on it with no problems. It even
survived a major EX L motor CATO. I had to replace a capacitor and the
on board battery holder. The unit has continued to work flawlessly.
The great thing about Perfectflite and Transolve, besides price: Both
provide outstanding repair service, if you need it. In fact John
Fleicher, at Transolve, will work on any unit you send him, even ADEPT
units with potted circuit boards.
Yep, got about three of those puppies also. However, I have had a couple
of incidents where both charges fired on the pad @ power-up. Both
incidents happened using the twisting wire method, to turn the units off
and on. Started using switches on everything, several years ago, and
haven't had another problem. Leads me to believe the RRC2 may be a
little sensitive to switch/contact bounce, just like the Transolve units
are. I have bench checked the Adept Alts 2 and 25, Also Perfectflite
unit, and they seem impervious to switch bounce. Testing the RRC2, I was
able to duplicate the firing of both charges, (using Davey Fire
e-matches), on two out of three instances of testing. The Transolve P6;
the test was three for three. The method of testing was to use a switch
to rapidly turn the units on and off and then back on, using a Davey
Fire e-match, for each event. I may be all wet and others may have
different experiences, but I now use switches.
What switches are people using? Most switches (except the screw down
ones) use springs and so might be considered subject to contact bounce.
But the RRC2 manual, for instance, says that using a normally-closed
phono jack is OK. I've used that technique myself as it allows the use
of a "remove before flight" pennant. For altimeters with a capacitor
backup this obviously isn't an issue. I have some of the MissileWorks
switches (the 110V vs 220V power selectors) but those aren't really
conducive to "remove before flight".
W. E. Fred Wallace wrote:
This may be a little complex to start out with... but I use DIP
switches that are mounted on a control board, which is hidden behind a
removable access-hatch. :-)
Prior to that, I mounted slide-switches on the airframe, and never
had a problem with bounce. Be sure that your 'On' or 'Armed' position
is *down*, and you won't have many problems.
Using phone-jacks for power connections is just as bad (or maybe
worse - I've never used'em...) as switches. Vibrations can cause the
contacts to separate, resetting your altimeter and causing a failed
recovery. Might be fine for shorting pyro channels, but I'd use
switches (or even just twisting the wires together...) for power.
I use Radio Shack's "submini" slide switch. For altimeters I use a DPDT
and solder the wires to both poles of the switch. Haven't had any
problems yet with this set up.
BTW, stay away from Radio Shack's "micro" slide switches (the tiniest
ones). Those are very unreliable.
I use the MissileWorks switches, and love them.
I've never understood the 'remove before flight' ribbon thing in hobby
rocketry. I mean, all you have to do is turn 1 or 2 devices on, it's
not like a fighter jet were you have to do a couple more things than
I guess they do look cool though.
Will Marchant wrote:
I make my own screw down switches.
Take a scrap of two sided pcb board. Drill a hole. Solder a brass nut
to one side. Slighly countersink the other side of the hold. Solder a
wire to each side. Insert screw, when screw is turned down.. Voila,
Dirt cheap and metaphysically reliable...
Rich Pitzeruse wrote:
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