Lessons learned building L1 rockets

"Tweak" wrote in message
Yep, that's why the new Phantom is better, the fins are a better design.
the LOC IV fins extend below the body tube, the Phantom doesn't
Treat the rockets like an R/C Airplane and hanger rash doesn't happen as often.
Reply to
AlMax
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50, so far, has been over a 5 year supply for me. Leave the mixing stick in as the leftover cures, then use the stick to help pop out the leftover.
Your Dremel is your friend.
Keep 'em handy!
Not always... Depends on temp and other factors. But NEVER contain it such that when it pressurizes whatever it's in the container (which may be your fin can!) distends. In tight areas, mix several small batches.
Yep. And if it doesn't knock it over, you will, by accident.
-Kevin
Reply to
Kevin Trojanowski
Quote from Mike Roberts on UTR:
"Check out the Drake "Doc" Damerau's Rocket Materials site at
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.org version dosent seem to work currently. Sspecifically the recovery harness testing section. This is a very useful resource and has some data that also shows quite graphically why epoxying tubular or plain single layer nylon webbing in to an airframe is a seriously bad idea!"
Should 'redesign your kit for zipperless recovery' be on the list perhaps?
Reply to
Niall Oswald
I would basically agree with this.
My rule of thumb for competition models is that if a model designed for class X can be flown on a class X+1 motor and not shread, it's overbuilt. THat would require unique models for each class. In reality I often use a model for the next class down, and someties for the next class up. I ahve also thermalled away a D RG on a B6-2 that I needed for NARAM a month later.
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!
Reply to
Bob Kaplow
our level 1 machine was a blue Ralphco crayon with 1/8" plywood fins, 1/8" CRs, Kaplow-style baffle and clips, all glued together with yellow glue. (and 10' elastic shock cord!) it's survived many many flights on everything from F40s to H220s.
I built another similar crayon but used epoxy instead of yellow glue. it's heavier enough that it doesn't fly well on F motors.
yellow glue works great!
Reply to
Cliff Sojourner
The problem with the late Ralphco crayon banks and similar is that neither yellow glue nor epoxy sticks to the plastic. I've had to use hot-melt, silicone caulk, and even pop-rivets.
Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD" >>> To reply, remove the TRABoD!
Reply to
Bob Kaplow
Gorilla glue (urethane) works great!!
I don't use the bottom cap because of the gluing problem, also I don't like the looks of it on the rocket.
for the nose cone I cut a plywood disk that just fits inside the lip; Gorilla glue works fine there. Used to use silicone caulk which would last a few flights.
Reply to
Cliff Sojourner

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