Of course, I was not suggesting that one consume it internally...nor in
an internal combustion engine.
But, I have found that it works *very* well for gluing styrene "fin can"
units to cardboard body tubes (a la many Quest kits). Just "slop" a hefty
amount of the Testors Liquid to the gluing surface of the plastic fin unit.
Let it sit for a minute. Repeat, so that it becomes "tacky". Spread
some yellow carpenter's glue to the inner gluing surface of the tube...
and attach the two parts. In theory, there is no reason why it should
work...but it does.
Registered Linux user #328317 - Slackware 10.1 (2.6.10)
I would "splurge" and get the yellow Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue.
A "clean" flat surface that you sand upon, is the first step. Try to attach
your sandpaper to as flat of a surface as possible, preferably glass, such
as a mirror, picture frame, glass table, or even one of your windows.
And use a sanding block.
Seriously, it is just something that takes time, care, and lots of
Most swear by Elmer's "Fill 'N Finish", which I believe is now
under the more generic name of "Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler".
Water soluble...and I usually mix in a bit of the aforementioned
yellow carpenter's wood glue, as well. One thing to keep in mind:
Try to fill both sides at the same time, else warping may occur.
If the wood is particularly tight-grained (such as good quality
basswood) I also use Gunze's "Mr. Surfacer" (popular with the
plastic scale model guys). It is thinned with the expensive
Gunze thinner....or you can cheap it out, by using plain old
Yep....which is going to be whatever works best for *you*; as there
is no right or wrong answer.
Someone else commented on the very fine spirals in Flis Kits.
I am impressed with the very fine spirals John Rowan-Stein
provides in his Thrustline-Aerospace kits. He also has a fine line
of kits (including very nice clones of Estes "classics"; and
he provides great service).
Just examine the method that Quest uses. I prefer to make sure
that the Kevlar/elastic connection does *not* extend to the *outside*
of the tube (i.e. keep it shorter, so that the cord has a much
smaller chance of "zippering" your tube...the elastic is far easier
on the tube, than the Kevlar.
The many-times-mentioned Stein book.
Plus, I really enjoy the website:
A great "portal" (spaceport?...lol) to model rocketry; and excellent
for the beginner, or BAR (Born Again Rocketeer).
Registered Linux user #328317 - SlackWare 10.1 (2.6.10)
I don't understand all the obsession with sanding. Heck 10-12 good coats of
paint and you can't tell they ever had spirals. ; )
Welcome back to the hobby Daniel and welcome to the rmr sandbox. If you
ignore about 95% of the posts here, you'll be just fine.
Hey, thanks everyone for your help so far! I've got another question.
After scouring the web I haven't come up with a good place to purchase
bulk shock cord material that I can measure and cut for longer shock
cords. I'm thinking of 20 feet or so in 1/4 and 1/8 inch widths. Also,
what type of kevlar cords should I use and what is a good vender to
purchase them from? I'd like to try the Quest style of shock cords out.
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Tom Binford wrote:
<pre wrap="">I'm thinking of 20 feet or so in 1/4 and 1/8 inch widths. Also,
what type of kevlar cords should I use and what is a good vender to purchase
them from? I'd like to try the Quest style of shock cords out.
<pre wrap=""><!---->Pratt Hobbies sells Kevlar although I haven't seen a
reason to use it. I
just replace the elastic as needed in smaller rockets. I use tubular nylon
in large rockets over 3 lb.
Since Great Lakes Hoobies is local I tend to buy a fair amount of
toys there, that includes Kevlar. They do mail order. But as long as
you're doing just model rockets I'd not bother with Kevlar unless the
kit comes with it, elastic will serve you just fine. If and when you go
to larger toys and maybe high power then you'll need to start
considering Kevlar. At that time 20 feet would be a bare minimum length
as the stuff isn't elastic and the shock as it snaps tight could cause
a zipper (cuts in the body tube as the cord slices through) or possibly
tearing loose the shockcord anchor. 100+ feet cords aren't uncommon.<br>
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