How I finally made the Kitty Hawk MH-6 fit together - steps that actually worked

Oct 14, 2026 Last reply: 2 days ago 4 Replies

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cbarlow_1990

I built that same kit last winter and my experience lined up with yours on the fuselage halves, but I actually found the tail boom seam closed up okay once I pinned it with a bit of stretched sprue. The roof seam was the stubborn one for me too, and Mr. Surfacer worked better…

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Just wrapped up my Little Bird build and the fit was rough enough that I figure someone else starting it might want my notes. First thing: throw out the instruction sequence for the fuselage halves. Dry fit everything, then scribe the mating edges with a sanding stick before you commit any glue. The seams around the tail boom and the cabin roof needed a couple passes with putty, and I only found that out the hard way by gluing too early. The clear parts were the worst offenders for me. I ended up masking them off and installing the canopy after paint, using a tiny bead of white glue instead of proper cement so I could pop it back off when it sat wrong. Saved my sanity.



Paint the pilot and any bench passengers before they go in the cabin, obviously, but also do the cockpit tub as a subassembly. It's way easier to detail a loose tub than to work through the door openings once the fuselage is closed up. Decals behaved fine with a bit of setter, and the external benches are a good spot to practice some wear and scuffing. Call mine done for now, though I keep eyeing the empty benches and thinking a couple of passengers woud sell the whole thing.


I built that same kit last winter and my experience lined up with yours on the fuselage halves, but I actually found the tail boom seam closed up okay once I pinned it with a bit of stretched sprue. The roof seam was the stubborn one for me too, and Mr. Surfacer worked better than regular putty there since it thins down with lacquer and you can wipe the excess with a cotton bud.

On the canopy, I went the same route with white glue, though I diluted mine with a drop of water so it went on thinner. It held through handling and still let me pop it free when I got fingerprints on the inside during the passenger install. The benches are indeed a good canvas. I chipped mine with a sponge and some olive drab, then hit the edges with a silver pencil like the boots had been dragging across them. I did add two figures from a Dragon special forces set and they fit the cabin surprisingly well, just had to trim a bit off the seat bottoms.

One thing I'd add is watch the rotor head. My blades drooped no matter what, so I ended up sliding a scrap of evergreen rod under the mast to prop them while everything cured. Not visible once the whole thing is together.

Mine still sits on the shelf half finished because I stalled on the weathering, so seeing yours done is making me want to pull it back down.

I did one of these a few years back and the canopy got the old Future dip. Brush a puddle of floor polish on the inside, let it dry overnight, and it hides most of the scuffing and gives you a bit of optical clarity back. Cheaper than any dedicated gloss coat and it levels itself out. Sounds like your white glue trick saved you the same headaches I had with the fit.

Also worth grabbing a set of seatbelt decals instead of fussing with the molded straps. They settle down with plain warm water, no fuss, and the extra detail reads well thru those big door openings.

Mine's still in the stash but this thread's got me warming up to start it. One thing I've been planning is doing the exhaust stacks with a bit of heat staining, that area always sells these for me since the real ones get hammered there. Question on the figures though, any ledge on placement? I've seen builds where the bench guys look stiff as mannequins if you don't angle thier legs out over the edge a bit.

Gotta push back on the stretched sprue pinning idea from earlier. I tried that exact trick on a tail boom once and the sprue just flexed, it's still styrene at the end of the day and it does nothing to stop the joint creeping while the glue sets. A short length of brass wire or a cut off pin held everthing dead straight for me, no re-gluing a week later when the boom sagged a hair. Did your boom stay put long term with the sprue, or did you have to go back and re-seat it? Also curious how you got the wire through that stubby socket in the fuselage, mine was too shallow for anything much longer than a few millimetres.

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