How do you glue resin parts to plastic in these hybrid kits?

You're right that regular plastic cement won't touch resin, so yeah, superglue is the way to go for most of it. I've built a couple of these hybrid kits and I use thin CA for small bits and a gel or medium CA for bigger joints like the cockpit tub. You get a few seconds of repositioning time with the gel, which helps. Epoxy works too and gives you a longer working window plus a bit of shock resistance, but honestly for a tub seating into a plastic shell, CA is fine. Scuff the mating surfaces lightly with a sanding stick or the back of a knife blade first and the bond gets way stronger. For landing gear, that's where I'd think about it more. The worry about snapping isn't the glue, it's the resin itself, which is more brittle than polystyrene. A lot of people pin the gear legs: drill a hole in the leg and the wing socket, run a short length of brass rod or wire through, then glue with CA. Takes ten minutes and kills the snap-off worry entirely. If pinning feels like too much for a first resin build, at least make sure the joint is scuffed and has plenty of CA contact area.

Prep is not overkill, it's essential. Resin molds are released with a silicone residue and sometimes a release agent that paint absolutely will not stick to. Warm water with dish soap and an old toothbrush, scrub every part, rinse, and let them dry fully. Some people also do a wipe with isopropyl alcohol for extra insurance. Then a proper primer, and resin takes primer pretty much the same as plastic once it's clean. A grey or white rattle can or airbrush primer works, just watch for missed spots because paint will tell you about them later.

One other thing worth doing before any glue: dry fit everything and check the resin parts against the plastic shell. Sometimes the print needs a light sand at a joint or the resin is slightly proud where it meets plastic, and it's much easier to fix before assembly than after. The low parts count grows on you. The detail level is way up on old styrene, you just do less fiddly work to get there.

This is helpful because I've got the same kind of kit sitting on my desk untouched for months. The pinning bit makes sense but I've never drilled anything that small. Do you just use a regular hand drill for that or is there some tiny tool I'd need to buy first? Also curious if resin parts can arrive bent, one of my wheel covers looks a little wavy in the bag and I don't know if that's normal or a return it situation.

This thread is convincing me to actually open the box, I've been putting mine off since Christmas. One thing I'm wondering that hasn't come up yet: what happens at seams where resin meets plastic? On my old plane kits I'd just drag thin cement along the joint and it'd melt together nicely, but I'm guessing CA doesn't fill gaps like that at all. Do you use regular filler over the CA line afterwards, or is there a trick to it? Also slightly worried the smell from sanding resin is different to plastic, it seemed stronger when I test-sanded one wheel on the sprue.

One thing I learned the hard way on my first resin hybrid: keep the CA away from the canopy. The fumes from a big bead of superglue can fog clear parts, and there's nothing you can do once it happens. I now use a white glue or a dedicated clear-parts glue for anything transparent, and only tiny dabs of CA on the frame edges if I have to. Also worth knowing, gel CA plus an accelerator kicks off almost instantly, so don't use that combo anywhere you might need to nudge something straight. Ask me how I know.

One thing I'd add to the sanding advice: do it wet. Resin dust is nasty stuff to breathe and I learned that the hard way sanding a cockpit tub dry on my first hybrid kit. Now I just keep a bowl of water next to me, dip the wet and dry paper now and then, and barely any dust goes airborne. The paper lasts longer that way too. The soapy scrub before priming worked fine for me, no paint lifting or fisheyes since I started doing it. Cheap and boring but it does the job.