monogram pby

do you have to weight the front end? rufus?

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Only if you want it stand on it's gear.
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ok, thanks. i certainly don't want it tail down. and i'm not skilled enough for water yet.
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Dave Williams avait crit le 25/05/2005 :

I built the 2 versions, PBY-5 (wihout wheel) and PBY-5A, amphibious and yes, to weight the nose is necessary... but please, think so from the opening of your box: there are many things to be seen in the nose, so little place for ballasts. Here is the way which I chose: every my wires were made with lead, and in the least hidden recesses, to the central part of the wing (and only forwards), I flooded very little balls used by the fishermen.
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Chris

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So that's how they can bear to sit for so long. ;-)
Mental Note: It might be safe for me to fish in France - just keep an eye on any *big scale* modellers carrying bloody pliers.
WmB
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WmB a utilis son clavier pour crire :

Lol, in fact there are very little size of this stuff, useful even for little models.
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Flying Frog wrote:

Absolutely. Fishing weights are handy for many such situations. I've weighted rr flat cars by mashing the smallest weights flat and super gluing them to the center sill. You can pack one or two inside the nose radome of a 1/72 Lightning, too, depending on how shaped you can make them.
Bill Banaszak, MFE
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great tips, i will do it that way. thanks.
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e avait prtendu :

Humm dont forget another good place to add lead (I wasn't able to use this place because I used metal P&W R-18-100... but lead is already in the parts ;o) ) : Revell-Monogram made only the first front cylinders... There is so many place behind, and as this place is in front of the centre of gravity, it would be regrettable to forget it.
Another thing : don't forget it is an heavy model, so with lead, it will be worse. Then do not hesitate to strengthen the tubes of gears! I redid them in metal, and so they did not suffer anytime, even 5 years after.
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Flying Frog wrote:

I'll second that. IIRC, 'e', you got the Rita. When I first built that I put enough weight inside to balance the tail. Several years later the landing gear started curling up under the weight.
Bill Banaszak, MFE
Lancaster County - Home of the $2M "Jeopardy Champion"!!!!
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Flying Frog wrote:

    This brings up an interesting point. We have a number of kits out there that would definitely benefit from cast metal landing gear legs. But only Aero-Club and Dave Klaus' outfit have done any, and only a very few. I had my attention brought back to this subject by that new 1/48 scale Halifax kit with it's nice sturdy landing gear. I wish someone would do a set of metal L.G. for the Tamiya Lancaster!     We get strange stuff like Moskit burnt metal exhausts but the place where Metal parts would be of most benefit seems to be ignored.
                        Bill Shuey
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Agreed
Model Railroaders have lost wax castings, why not us?
Keith Walker
btw which mark were the two most famous PBY's? I am talking about the PBY that sited the Japanese fleet at Midway (Strawberry 6?) and of course the British PBY that found the Bismark!
: : This brings up an interesting point. We have a number of kits out there : that would definitely benefit from cast metal landing gear legs. But : only Aero-Club and Dave Klaus' outfit have done any, and only a very : few. I had my attention brought back to this subject by that new 1/48 : scale Halifax kit with it's nice sturdy landing gear. I wish someone : would do a set of metal L.G. for the Tamiya Lancaster! : We get strange stuff like Moskit burnt metal exhausts but the place : where Metal parts would be of most benefit seems to be ignored. : : Bill Shuey
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"news.verizon.net" wrote:

    That's the medium that Dave Klaus' outfit, Meteor Productions used. I have seen a set for the Hasegawa F-86 and Mitsubishi Raiden. Doesn't make sense to me. How about the Monogram B-17, 24 1nd 29 kits? Now there are some kits that could definitely benefit from more sturdy L.G.     Aero Club has done cast zinc leg sets for a few aircraft including I believe the Monogram F-105 and the 1/32 scale Revell Hunter, but the selection is very limited.
                        Bill Shuey
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William H. Shuey wrote:

I think the gear that are (were?) available under the Teknics line are lost wax cast brass...yup - just checked. Limited subject selection, but most of note are the ones for the F7F Tigercat. That kit REALLY needs them...anyway, they list lost wax brass cast gear sets for the J2M Raiden, P-47, F-105, F-86, P-51, F-84, F8F, and F7F.
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- Rufus

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Rufus wrote:

Are cast metal gear parts really that much sturdier? I can see how they might be in the larger scales, and/or for larger real-life parts...but for the average 1/48th scale or smaller piece? At least plastic has a bit of flexibility. Now, has there been much work in resin casting, with embedded steel wire? This has been done in the figure arena. It provides strength, plus the superior "detail catching" quality that resin provides.
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Greg Heilers
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I don't know about sturdier... But they don't give up anything to resin in detail !! I'm talking about the Teknics brass gear. I have several set's (all 1/48) and the detail is excellent !!
Allan
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AM wrote:

Agreed - they're excellent.
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- Rufus

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While some 1/48 kits like the P-51 might not need the strength of metal gear, it would befinitely benefit the F-105 kit. I've built the -G and the model "rocks" on it's tall, thin main gear every time you disturb the surface it is sitting on. Also, it is definitely needed for the 1/32 Trumpeter kit, for both strength and the "rocking" effect.
Dave
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Dave Williams wrote:

I am not doubting the need for a sturdy gear on the F-105, as I have built the Monogram version a time or two. I was just questioning whether cast metal, particularly "white metal", pewter, even brass; would be that much stronger, in such a thin, high stress area. At least plastic has a bit of "spring", to absorb some shock.
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Greg Heilers
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snipped-for-privacy@earthNOSPAMlink.net wrote:

you guys are making me nervous.
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