monogram pby

do you have to weight the front end? rufus?

Reply to
e
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Only if you want it stand on it's gear.

Reply to
Dave Williams

ok, thanks. i certainly don't want it tail down. and i'm not skilled enough for water yet.

Reply to
e

Dave Williams avait écrit le 25/05/2005 :

I built the 2 versions, PBY-5 (wihout wheel) and PBY-5A, amphibious and yes, to weight the nose is necessary... but please, think so from the opening of your box: there are many things to be seen in the nose, so little place for ballasts. Here is the way which I chose: every my wires were made with lead, and in the least hidden recesses, to the central part of the wing (and only forwards), I flooded very little balls used by the fishermen.

Reply to
Flying Frog

So that's how they can bear to sit for so long. ;-)

Mental Note: It might be safe for me to fish in France - just keep an eye on any *big scale* modellers carrying bloody pliers.

WmB

Reply to
WmB

great tips, i will do it that way. thanks.

Reply to
e

WmB a utilisé son clavier pour écrire :

Lol, in fact there are very little size of this stuff, useful even for little models.

Reply to
Flying Frog

e avait prétendu :

Humm dont forget another good place to add lead (I wasn't able to use this place because I used metal P&W R-18-100... but lead is already in the parts ;o) ) : Revell-Monogram made only the first front cylinders... There is so many place behind, and as this place is in front of the centre of gravity, it would be regrettable to forget it.

Another thing : don't forget it is an heavy model, so with lead, it will be worse. Then do not hesitate to strengthen the tubes of gears! I redid them in metal, and so they did not suffer anytime, even 5 years after.

Reply to
Flying Frog

That is of little concern. As long as the added weight is forward of the center of gravity, it will help. It does not necessarily have to be in the nose, as there is plenty of available space behind the cockpit. Admittedly, the further forward you add the weight...the less you need...

But, if everyone would just take the obvious route...and permanently affix every completed model to a decorative base...then such a dilemna would never occur.

:o)

(Coming from one who sees models as an *art* form...and would no more present a model without a base; as he would a painting without a frame.)

Reply to
Greg Heilers

yes and i use engine cowls and spaces also. anything forward as you said.

Reply to
e

For the -5A, I expect so. The -5 wasn't a problem on the beaching gear with the tail stand.

Reply to
Rufus

looks cooler wiyhout the tail stand. yours is on all 3? damn memory.

Reply to
e

Yeah - remember the one I have built is the -5, so it's on the beaching gear. If I ever build another one I'll probably scratch build a set of brass beaching gear.

I have yet to build my amphib...I haven't seen a paint scheme I like other than the sub-chasers...may just do #10 from the same squadron. That one was a -5A, as I recall. Anyway, that one will be sitting on three wheels if I have any control over it.

Reply to
Rufus

Absolutely. Fishing weights are handy for many such situations. I've weighted rr flat cars by mashing the smallest weights flat and super gluing them to the center sill. You can pack one or two inside the nose radome of a 1/72 Lightning, too, depending on how shaped you can make them.

Bill Banaszak, MFE

Reply to
Mad Modeller

I'll second that. IIRC, 'e', you got the Rita. When I first built that I put enough weight inside to balance the tail. Several years later the landing gear started curling up under the weight.

Bill Banaszak, MFE

Lancaster County - Home of the $2M "Jeopardy Champion"!!!!

Reply to
Mad Modeller

This brings up an interesting point. We have a number of kits out there that would definitely benefit from cast metal landing gear legs. But only Aero-Club and Dave Klaus' outfit have done any, and only a very few. I had my attention brought back to this subject by that new 1/48 scale Halifax kit with it's nice sturdy landing gear. I wish someone would do a set of metal L.G. for the Tamiya Lancaster! We get strange stuff like Moskit burnt metal exhausts but the place where Metal parts would be of most benefit seems to be ignored.

Bill Shuey

Reply to
William H. Shuey

Agreed

Model Railroaders have lost wax castings, why not us?

Keith Walker

btw which mark were the two most famous PBY's? I am talking about the PBY that sited the Japanese fleet at Midway (Strawberry 6?) and of course the British PBY that found the Bismark!

Reply to
news.verizon.net

G-Factor in Fresno is doing some nice work making cast brass landing gear...problem is you have to sort of get hold of them by serendipity. I was fortunate enough to get a set of Ernie's 1/32 F-105 landing gear for my F-105G and they are first-rate. Very nice lost wax castings, from teh look of it.

I just e-mailed Ernie tonight to see if he has a website or at least a product listing...he's doing some good work.

Reply to
Rufus

That's the medium that Dave Klaus' outfit, Meteor Productions used. I have seen a set for the Hasegawa F-86 and Mitsubishi Raiden. Doesn't make sense to me. How about the Monogram B-17, 24 1nd 29 kits? Now there are some kits that could definitely benefit from more sturdy L.G. Aero Club has done cast zinc leg sets for a few aircraft including I believe the Monogram F-105 and the 1/32 scale Revell Hunter, but the selection is very limited.

Bill Shuey

Reply to
William H. Shuey

I think the gear that are (were?) available under the Teknics line are lost wax cast brass...yup - just checked. Limited subject selection, but most of note are the ones for the F7F Tigercat. That kit REALLY needs them...anyway, they list lost wax brass cast gear sets for the J2M Raiden, P-47, F-105, F-86, P-51, F-84, F8F, and F7F.

Reply to
Rufus

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