I need to make some REALLY thin wires for some masters I am making and was told to use Miliputt. How is this accomplished using the obvious "rolling" technique? Can this be done with regular epoxy putty or does Miliputt have a special "quality" to it?
Thanks
Scott,
It is far easier, if one uses Duro (a.k.a. Kneadatite); the blue+yellow stuff, known (erroneously...as the Squadron product had the name first) in the "D&D Wargaming Geek" circles as "Green Stuff". Duro/Kneadatite has an elasticity about it that makes it ideal for what you are seeking. Stuff like Milliput, A&B, etc., has always seemed far to brittle to form into such thin strands; but the Duro/Kneadatite works very well, due to its elasticity. Look at just about any 54mm mounted figure sculpted by Bill Horan, and the reins, etc., are made from Duro/Kneadatite.
It is available from numerous sources, although it usually requires a bit of searching to find it, as it is marketed under many names.
Here is the webpage from the manufacturer:
Try to avoid the ones that come in the "coaxial" packaging (one part packaged as a "core" inside the other part), as it will (obviously) have begun to cure where the two parts meet, and this packaging style results in a lot of wasted material. Try to get the standard flat-ribbon package, or ideally, a package where both halves are separate from one another.
stuff, known (erroneously...as the Squadron product
FWIW My local hardware store has the flat blue-yellow ribboned packaging. Try your closest hardware store.
Bill Shuey
Thanks Greg.
What is used to roll it so thin? Glass on glass?
Thanks Bill
I never really contemplated that. I guess "glass on glass" would work; although I think that I would, personally, probably find the sections of glass too heavy to comfortably work with. Perhaps just fingers on a sheet of glass would suffice.
...or two sheets of plexi - one large to roll on, and a smaller one to roll with. 1/4" thick clear stock should be just the ticket.
Also - check into how the bead artists do it with FIMO clays...in fact, you may just be better off making your parts in FIMO and then baking them if you're trying to make a durable master.
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