Tamiya 1/12 motorcycle kits: How to avoid the bin

Hi,

I have quite a bit of experience modelling. Most of it extremely frustrating if I am honest. I don't think I have built a kit yet that I was really happy with, and 2 years ago I told my wife that if I ever bought a kit again she should throw it straight in the bin before I start it.

I just bought a 1/12 scale hayabusa kit from tamiya :-)

So, I have some questions to hopefully avoid some of the problems I've had in the past before I start this kit.

Last time I built a kit I got quite a nice finish on the bodywork using tamiya sprays. I then applied the decals and tried to apply a coat of clear varnish on the top, and the decals started to disintegrate. I'm not really sure why this was, and although it wasn't a total disaster it certainly spoilt it for me. Any advice on this?
On the same subject, I want to get a really nice polished look to the bodywork. I've done a search on the web and there is quite a lot of information about how to achieve this, but almost all relating to model cars, which by and large don't have that many decals on the body so can be painted and polished to your hearts content. Anyone here have any specific advice about achieving this with motorcycle kits?
Will I get a better finish using a proper spray gun as opposed to spray cans? If so, can anyone recommend a good model to me? Are they quite easy to learn how to use because I've never used one before and I'm not sure if I'm better off sticking with the cans.
Are there any good books around that would help me achieve a good painting result on this project? I really want it to be a success.

Thanks for your help, and sorry if a lot of these questions get asked all time.

Cheers, Mark.

There are certain spray solvents that will destroy decals. An airbrush and clear enamel will usually sidestep this problem. Use of hobby enamels or acrylics will also help. However, buying a clear gloss finish spray off the shelf is always a risk unless you've used it before. If you're in doubt, use a small piece of the intended decal to test your clearcoat.

Lots of Car Guys=A9 do this with lots of decals on the body. Think NASCAR modelers (although, strictly speaking, most sponsor decals shouldn't be glossy because they're stick-on vinyl on the 1:1). What this takes is lots of clear topcoat so it can be polished with a polishing kit. Either that or a deft hand in applying the topcoat so it turns out glossy.

If you're really attached to the Hayabusa, get yourself a cheap 'practice model' for learning how to use an airbrush. Then, get a good quality airbrush. I like the Paasche H single action for starters, although the airbrush fanatics will insist you *must* have a double action unit. I have both and I don't see what all the fuss is about. There's almost nothing you can do with a double action brush you can't do with a good single action brush.

Hit your local library. There are plenty of books on airbrush use. The only real drawback to a typical modeler is that these books deal in artistic or illustrative uses, not the simple (but small) surface painting that we do. If you know how to use a spray can, you'll quickly figure out how to refine your technique with an airbrush - because you can. As I said, shoot a cheap practice model, expecting crappy results, so you learn what you're doing first. Good luck and enjoy!

-- C=2ER. Krieger Been there; done that