Metal Wheels and Wheelsets for HO frieght cars

I like InterMountain myself.

Paul

I like the Proto 2000. Never had a problem with 'em

Carter

I use KD and Proto2K.

Rick wrote:

Properly fitted metal-wheel wheelsets will offer superior performance to plastic wheels. They roll more freely, and both create and collect less dirt.

IM (Intermountain), Reboxx, Kadee, Proto 2000 (P2K), Northwest Short Line (NWSL), and JayBee (JB) are the most common metal wheelset replacements. Most of these should be available from any good hobby shop, via Walthers' for one source. Reboxx sell direct, but may also be available through some hobby shops.

The Kadee and P2K sets have plastic axles. These are fine in metal sideframes.

The other all use metal axles, often brass for non magnetic properties. these are best in plastic sideframes, and are 'OK' for metal sideframes as well.

I've had the best luck with the IM and Reboxx sets, but the others are fine too.

IM and NWSL sell both full NMRA recommended width wheels, AND the 0.088" narrower tread wheels. IIRC, Reboxx sells ONLY the narrow tread wheels. The narrow wheels LOOK a lot better, and will run fine on GOOD trackwork. The wider wheels are more forgiving on bad track.

Reboxx is unique in offering a large number of different axle lengths ... which is CRITICAL in getting some trucks to work properly. they are the 'only game in town' when that's an issue.

Reboxx also offer both ONE and TWO wheel insulation options.

MANY sideframes have poorly formed cone recesses for the axle ends. Reboxx and Micro-Mark both sell an inexpensive little reamer device that reforms most bad sideframe holes, Getting one is a GOOD investment.

Dan Mitchell ==========

Rick wrote:

Dan's points are well made. I prefer to use Steam Era sets, which also come in different axle lengths and tread widths, also spoked wheels as well. These may not be readily available outside Oz, but Walthers imports their Black Beatle so maybe they have their wheelsets as part of the line.

Steve Newcastle NSW Aust

It's good to remember that a bunch of great MMRing products are made in OZ and UK. Shipping is reasonable and pricing (I have found) is much better than here in the US. All it's takes is a VISA (you break up the number of course) and email communication. In fact, in most instances, you can get a shipment from OZ quicker than ordering something at your local shop.

If anybody wants to check them out, try:

Steve Ncle NSW Aust

Rick;

I've used Kadee for many years and haven't had any problems at all simply exchanging them into the Athearn and MDC sideframes. Immediately, the improved performance is noticeable. Check the rolling quality before remounting them, though. On rare occasions, I've found wobbly or minor defects. At the time, it's a good idea to lube them with a dab of graphite.

Ian Mathers Great Northern Sand & Gravel Company

For HO pin point bearings steel axles with brass bearings are a good combination, stainless steel is necessary if you use magnetic uncouplers, however for extended life lubrication will help for both steels. I have had no trouble with this combination other than one very heavy wagon, (all metal body) no lubrication, after about 10 years use, bearings were worn out enough to lower the model about 0.5mm. You can get away with brass axles in brass bearings, they will wear out quicker. Carriages I have with this combination are still going OK after 10 years.

a small reamer device for this purpose.

Terry Flynn

For HO scale track standards go to

includes details of HO wagon weight and locomotive tractive effort estimates

The model railroad industry likes to use Acetal to mould many of its components. It is quite likely that the wheelset and the truck are both made from Acetal. My experience from my work with plastic friction bearing parts in my design job in the medical industry is that Acetal on Acetal is not a good friction situation. Acetal is generally a slippery material, but Acetal upon itself is quite poor. Go with the metal axles and the cars will roll very well and your trucks will experience very little friction wear.

Greg Lawrence, P.Eng. Mechanical Design Engineer (and model railroader) London, ON