MICROLUX MINIATURE TABLE SAW

Does anyone have this saw? http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229 &Actiontalog&Type=Product&IDP304
How's the quality? Are there other miniature table saws I should consider? I'm looking to cut styrene sheets and bass wood, and maybe a few dowels.
Harbor Freight offers one for $40, but my local store apparently doesn't carry it, and I don't know if they could order it (and save on shipping) if I asked. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber93211
Puckdropper
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On 10/22/2008 10:15 PM Puckdropper spake thus:

No, but I might suggest you get a news agent that doesn't chop URLs arbitrarily (I've restored them below). Thunderbird is one such.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action talog&Type=Product&IDP304> Harbor Freight offers one for $40, but my local store apparently doesn't

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"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
: Does anyone have this saw? : http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229 : &Actiontalog&Type=Product&IDP304 : : How's the quality? Are there other miniature table saws I should consider? : I'm looking to cut styrene sheets and bass wood, and maybe a few dowels. : : Harbor Freight offers one for $40, but my local store apparently doesn't : carry it, and I don't know if they could order it (and save on shipping) if : I asked. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber: 93211 : : Puckdropper : --
I don't have the MicroLux Mini Table Saw, but the other MicoLux power tools I have work as advertised. I've been using the Mini Drill Press in my repair shop for nearly 10 years now with no problems.
The real question is what do you intend to use the saw for? From the descriptions, it appears the MicroLux saw from Micro-Mark and the Chicago Power Tools saw from HF have different purposes.
A couple of quick comparisons:
MicroLux: 2" 80-tooth, .02" kerf combination blade, 10mm arbor hole w/saw 2" 107-tooth, .02" kerf cross-cut blade, 10mm arbor hole available
Chicago: 4" 40-tooth, .07" kerf combination blade, 1/2in arbor hole w/saw 4" 70-80 Grit diamond edge blade, 1/2in arbor hole w/saw
MicroLux: 1/10hp motor, belt drive Chicago: 1/8hp motor, direct drive
MicroLux: 1/4" Max Depth of Cut Chicago: 3/4" Max Depth of Cut
MicroLux: "The MicroLux Miniature Table Saw is designed specifically for rip-cutting narrow strips from sheet stock and for cross-cutting to close tolerances. It will even cut wood and plastic structural shapes and miniature molding if used with our optional fine tooth blade (#15220, sold separately). Cuts both softwood and hardwood up to 1/4 inch thick and plywood up to 3/16 inch thick."
Chicago: "Perfect for picture frames, molding, and plastics."
All of this points to the Chicago saw generally being intended for rougher and heavier work, relatively speaking, than the MicroLux saw.
If you're looking for a saw to cut thin material, e.g., basswood strips, for scratch building structures and car body parts, I'd go with the MicroLux.
Len
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On 10/23/2008 3:24 AM Len spake thus:
[comparing MicroLux vs. Harbor Freight miniature table saws]

Certainly one could put a thinner blade (say the size of the MicroLux blade) on the Harbor Freight saw to yield a more precise cutting tool, no? (Assuming the arbor doesn't wobble, the table is squarely ground and doesn't flex, etc.)
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saw.
and
The MicroLux has a 10mm arbor, the Chicago's is 1/2in (13mm) so I don't think it would fit. I'm not putting a 2" diameter blade on a saw designed for 4" blades is a good idea even if it did fit.
Len
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On 10/23/2008 12:05 PM Len spake thus:

That would definitely be a problem; however, I'm sure you can get smaller, thinner blades with a 1/2" hole.

Why not? I have a 9" table saw but regularly mount smaller blades on it with no problems at all.
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don't
it
And I'll bet the blade height on your 9" table saw has a fairly decent range of adjustment.
On that Chicago 4" table saw the maximum depth of cut is 3/4". Even if there's 1" of blade exposed above the table, there's 3" underneath. Which means a 2" diameter blade, assuming it fit the arbor to begin with, isn't going to get it's teeth above the table top.
Len
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*trim*
*snip: comparison points*

Thanks for the advice. The HF saw ("Chicago") looked like a cheap way to get feel for a miniature table saw, but it looks like it'll be too coarse and rough for what I want to do.
My first project will be cutting ties out of basswood. Future projects include cutting sheet styrene for kit mangling. (It's bashing or mingling if multiple kits are involved, mangling if only one is.)
I'll definately go with a Microlux or similar saw, rather than mess with the HF one.
Puckdropper
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"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message

Hmmm... those aren't the defnintions I learned... I was told tht if it was successful, it was a kit mingle. If it ended up in the trash, then it was a kit mangle! : ) Unfortunately, I've had more than my fair share of "mangles..."
dlm
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On Fri, 24 Oct 2008 08:28:23 +0000, Puckdropper wrote:

They're a little on the spendy side, but take a look at the Proxxon tools.
http://www.proxxon.com/us /
PS: I'm NOT impressed with their website.
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On Fri, 24 Oct 2008 09:26:03 -0700, Larry Blanchard

I downloaded their catalog on the "Customer Service" tab. Much better information.
Jim
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Thanks, it looks like the Microlux tools are very eerily (it's Halloween after all) similar to the Proxxon tools. I see Woodcraft carries the Proxxon tool line.
The Proxxon website is useless in anything but Internet Explorer, and not that great in the first place.
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Proxxon makes the tilt arbor saw and the expensive ($180. or so) chop saw that Micromark sells.
Matt
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Micro Mark's table saw is Proxxon-made. Same saw (and lots of accessories for it) is also sold at http://www.modelexpo-online.com .
I have the saw but I haven't put it through its paces yet. It seems like it will be able to cut precisely.
Peteski
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On 10/24/2008 1:28 AM Puckdropper spake thus:

My guess (and others can support or contest this) is that no circular saw is going to give good results on styrene, which will melt from the friction rather than cutting cleanly (especially since the blade is spinning so fast). I'd think that scribing and snapping is still the best way to go here.
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For what it's worth... I was told that molded plastic has a lot of internal stresses much like glass. It doesn't scribe & snap as easily as extruded plastic does. I think that kit walls are molded; stock like Evergreen is extruded. But, as usual, I could be mistaken... not wrong, just mistaken! : )
dlm
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On 10/27/2008 11:05 AM Dan Merkel spake thus:

The statement I made applies to plain sheet styrene stock. For molded pieces like kit walls, scoring and snapping doesn't work, or doesn't work well, and a good saw would probably be the right tool to use on them.
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HF has a small chop saw that will do much finer work. It's not a table saw however so ripping is out of the question.
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It's a great tool, I've got one. It's a great tool for any model railroader who's in to building or throwing out the kit directions. At $30, it's a tool well worth having.
Puckdropper
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On 10/24/2008 4:15 PM Puckdropper spake thus:

Is this it? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?ItemnumberB307
Actually only $27.99.
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