Moving forward on my KCS Southern Belle - questions please....

Feb 14, 2005 14 Replies

I've got most of the information I need for the train, thanks, and I'm working on the track design now. A couple more newbie questions if I might.


- DCC - okay, I'll spend the extra money on this as it sounds great. But to simplify for a beginner after going to several web pages, reading, and bookmarking, and designing a layout that won't exceed 3' x 10' or so, and no more than 1 or maybe 2 trains ever running at the same time. What brand/model controller/decoder would be best as far as value($) and features?


- Track - I've read until my eyeballs are blurry, in the end I'd like to putter a bit laying things out, but I don't want to spend lots of time doing custom trackwork. So which brands of modular track with roadbed are the best as far as ease to work with, good fit, and of course value? And should I compromise and get the long flextrack lengths to run in tunnels etc. so that de-rails would possibly be minimized?



Thanks for your input and information, all the things I learned decades ago have faded. REading as fast as I can but there is so much information and not any consolidated down to starter nitty gritty!



Unk


If you can live with the look of RTR track, I suppose Kato makes the best track I have ever operated on. I operate on two different N scale large home layouts. One with Peco track and the other with Kato. The Kato layout runs much better of the two. The Peco track looks more realistic. Your call.

If it was me, I'd probably use the Kato track and work it in the best I could.

As far as DCC VS DC is concerned, it depends on a lot of things. DCC works very well with minimum electrical-electronics knowledge on the part of the user. It requires less initial work to get up and running, but it requires an initial investment much larger than using DC. DC is not as expensive to start, but in the end, it about evens out. DC is more labor intensive and requires you to have electrical/electronics skills to get optimum performance. DCC locomotives will run very well at slow speeds on clean track. DC locomotives will not, unless you have a more sophisticated power source than a transformer and a rheostat. Many people enjoy the electrical facet of the hobby and derive some satisfaction from engineering and implementing a DC control system. I do not and have elected to use DCC. Both N scale railroads that I operate on are Digitrax DCC. One runs better than the other, as I previously stated, but BOTH of them run better than either one of them did when they were DC powered.

I highly recommend DCC for N scale, but others will recommend DC, so you will simply have to work it out for yourself. I've been playing with trains for more than 50 years and have gleefully made the transition from DC to DCC. Some good DCC brands are:

Digitrax:

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DCC:
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Coast Engineering:
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My favored dealer is Southern Digital Hobbies:
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For DC,......well,.....you are on your own. Many people will claim that a properly engineered DC system will do anything a DCC system will and more. That's beautiful if you're an electrical engineer, but there's nothing you can go out and buy and bring home and use without doing some engineering first. If you do not already have electrical experience, you will get a lot of it this way. Good luck and God bless you.

CH>

A fellow KCS fan

I've recommended the Digitrax Zephyr before and do so again. It sells for around $160 in the US. It can operate up to 10 trains and 10 throttles at a time, has 2.5 amps output ... should be more than enough for your operation. See:

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I'll second the Captain's recommendation of Kato UniTrack. If sectional track is your preference, Kato looks good with its integral roadbed and performs very well, both electrically and mechanically. In N, it comes in a good variety of lengths, radii, etc. See their website:
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(Click on "UniTrack" at top center.)

-- Bill McC.

"Bill McCutcheon" wrote in news:_E8Qd.329$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net:

I was going to buy the Digitrax Zephyr, until a very wise gentleman pointed out that if I wanted walk-around control, I would do just as well to buy the more capable Super Empire Builder. By the time you buy the Zephyr, plus a handheld cab, you have spent nearly as much as the Super Empire Builder.

As to DC vs DCC, I do know electronics from years of tinkering, training in the USAF, working for the phone company, and being a ham radio operator at one time. I still chose DCC. Real trains are controlled from the locomotive. DCC trains are controlled from the locomotive. You as a model railroader just have the ability to jump from the controls of one loco to another in an instant. Incidentally, the Digitrax Super Empire Builder with the DT400 handheld allows you to control two trains at the same time without having to switch between them. You can run more than two, but you always have two live in your hand.

So far, all I have done is put a large oval of track on an existing 4x8 table and run a DCC loco around in circles and I am already sold compeltely on DCC. It looked intimidating at first, but once I tried it, I wondered why I even hesitated! I'm also in love with the BLI loco I bought with the decoder and sound already installed. It's an EMD E7A and it is absolutely amazing. Lists for $225, but look for discounters. I bought it for $190. I think the only sound they didn't capture is the engineer breaking wind.

I'd tend to stay away from sectional track if possible. There are way too many connections of the rails for reliable operation. Use the flextrack for track is the minimal that I'd recommend with each rail electricallly connected to the wiring by soldering to the rails. Use some 22 ga. or 24 ga. wire on the end of the 16 ga. or larger wire to make the actual connection to the rail. You on;ly need to make that fine wire about 1/2" long and that won't hurt the conduction of the current for the track and will make the soldering of the wire to the rail a lot easier to do. Telephone wire is a great source for the wire as you can find it free wherever there is a telephone installation going on. Just 20' of 2 or 6 twisted wire will do you for almost forever. Then again, I handlay all of my rail as it is not only cheaper to do but the appearance of the track is a lot nicer than any prefabbed track.

-- Why isn't there an Ozone Hole at the NORTH Pole?

"Bob May" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news-1.nethere.net:

Thanks very much for the information!!!

Unk

The Zephyr can read the configuration variables (CV) in the decoder that goes into the loco to make it all work. The Super Empire Builder (DBS-150) can not read CVs. While you can program the decoders with either one, only the Zepher or the Chief can read the decoder CVs. That is a major downside to the DBS-150.

There is no performance difference between DCC and DC if you compare appropriate systems. DCC produces a pulse width modulated waveform (PWM) to the DC motor. Some DC controllers produce exactly the same waveform, therefore no difference. If you compare a non back EMF DCC decoder with a DC controller with back EMF the DC PWM back EMF controller will be better. It also works the other way.

There are plenty of good DC systems off the shelf, from a simple throttle to fully automatic computer systems.

The difference dear Flynn, is that with a DCC system you simply plug it in and go. Doing it your way means first engineering the system, then compiling a bill of materials, then purchasing all the discrete parts, then putting it all together and wiring the railroad. And then hoping it works. And.......before you can do any of that, you have to know HOW to engineer a DC control system Screw that! I'd rather stick needles under my fingernails than go through all that rubbish! Buy a Digitrax Super Chief, plug it in and run trains. My hobby is model railroading, not electrical engineering.

I listed four DCC systems and indicated websites where information could be found and included the address of a dealer where systems could be purchased.

You make vague claims that "systems" are available. You handbuilt yours bit by bit, cludging each bit to fit its application, and are proud of saying so. So then, where are these ready to go DC systems that can compete with the best DCC systems for less money?

It's time to put up. Either list them or withdraw your claim.

CH>

"When I use a word," Humpty Dumpty said, in a rather scornful tone, "it means just what I choose it to mean -- neither more nor less."

Likewise Flynn. Nobody else would seriously argue that a simple throttle is a good, off-the-shelf DC system.

(sigh).......yes, I know. The truth is that there is no such thing as a plug-N-play DC cab/block control system. So long as you are determined to control the track under the train, you are going to be forced to engineer each and every operating system from scratch. There is no such thing as a ready to go DC system.

No, there ain't no such animal. But that small fact won't stop our indefatigable OP from attempting some more spin and obfuscation...

In light of recent "discussions" on the subject of DC vs DCC, I think that Greg Procter had some issues with those who claim that DCC "is the only way". true, it is not, but anyone who has any experience with both systems will have to concede that engineering a model railway for DCC use is a great deal easier than engineering one for DC block/cab control. Everything you need to operate a DCC layout can be purchased already built and ready to incorporate into your system, including the ability to subdivide it into electrical sections that operate independently. You don't have to "invent" anything. You don't have to build anything. Digitrax even makes a signal system that operates on top of the layout's OS. Its simple, basic, and limited in scope somewhat, but it works and is prototypical for most North American systems. If you are too cheap to spend the money (like some we know), or if you truly can't afford to do it, that is another matter altogether.

Moving the control of the train from the track to the locomotive is, by far, a superior method of operation for those who can make use of it. With individual locomotive control you can operate like a real railroad, and not like a clockwork animation.

Another myth that has propagated is that you need a computer to operate a DCC system. That is patently false. I have DCC and do not use a computer and never have. The only "computer" you need is the system itself. To operate a DC cab/block system that can compete with a top level DCC system, you do need a computer. electrical knowledge, and lots of money. Just as much, if not more, than you need to do the same things with DCC. If you are going to operate a large layout with many operators, DCC works beautifully. It requires no special skills and is easy to learn. If you are going to operate a very small layout with two or more operators. it is even better. If you are going to sit alone and run the trains one at a time, you need to think about it.

DCC is not for everyone, but for the overwhelming majority of model railroaders it is a wonderful thing.

CH>

Captain Handbrake @ ACL.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.east.earthlink.net:

You've sold me on dcc, even though the last scenario is going to be my model railroad environment. I'm not a micro-manager, I just want to see my train run, and run easily, and putter around with the 3 x 8 layout scenery and such. Though I'm a soldering fool from Heathkit days (recivers to tv's), I'll pass on most of it now. :)

Unk

Well, congratulations on what I believe is a wise choice for your control system, and good luck building your layout.

I might just add that it's interesting to note just how many modellers with a trade background or other experience in electronics, apparently have no desire whatsoever to design, build and de-bug DC sytems...

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