This sounds intriguing. Just how many girlfriends have you got, and does
your wife know?
John
- posted
17 years ago
Clean hands
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- posted
17 years ago
Didn't mean it to happen. I don't believe that.
Fortunately all hand cleaners have to be licenced and sold with COSHH data
sheets to ensure that they are not used incorrectly and dangerously by
unqualified DIY enthusiasts.
John
John
- posted
17 years ago
Gentlemen,
My tip of the week, As we all know none of our engines are that clean and
when I have been busy working on them I find no matter how good the hand
cleaner is I still find for days my hands still have the in-grained look.
What I am about to suggest is not some amusing quip, because of the nature
of my work I have to wear either Nitrile or Latex Rubber gloves for
protection and this causes my hands during me wearing them to sweat and I
can guarantee that after I remove them my hands are spotlessly clean it even
manages to clean my nails. I can only assume that the sweat and heat in a
confined space does the job but it does work.
Martin P
My tip of the week, As we all know none of our engines are that clean and
when I have been busy working on them I find no matter how good the hand
cleaner is I still find for days my hands still have the in-grained look.
What I am about to suggest is not some amusing quip, because of the nature
of my work I have to wear either Nitrile or Latex Rubber gloves for
protection and this causes my hands during me wearing them to sweat and I
can guarantee that after I remove them my hands are spotlessly clean it even
manages to clean my nails. I can only assume that the sweat and heat in a
confined space does the job but it does work.
Martin P
- posted
17 years ago
Three tips my father passed on to me for clean hands which has always
worked for me: Never wash you hands in petrol (that includes washing
parts, too), never wash your hands in hot water and avoid like the
plague,
Swafega.
Tom
Tom
- posted
17 years ago
There are times when gloves do not assist you in doing the work and you
find it better to work without. At those times that you do get very dirty
hands do the following;
1. Pour about 1 desert spoon full of granulated sugar into one hand. 2. Add a good squirt of Fairy Liquid (enough to mix in the sugar). 3. Rub the micture around your hands. The sugar grittiness will scour the dirt from all the crevices and the Fairy Liquid will lift it off your hands once it is loosened. 4. Once all the dirt is on the move rinse under warm water until hands are soap free.
I have used this mixture for years and it always seemed to work on everything except some forms of paint.
1. Pour about 1 desert spoon full of granulated sugar into one hand. 2. Add a good squirt of Fairy Liquid (enough to mix in the sugar). 3. Rub the micture around your hands. The sugar grittiness will scour the dirt from all the crevices and the Fairy Liquid will lift it off your hands once it is loosened. 4. Once all the dirt is on the move rinse under warm water until hands are soap free.
I have used this mixture for years and it always seemed to work on everything except some forms of paint.
- posted
17 years ago
But you don't say how he *did* recommend cleaning your hands, only
what he didn't recommend. Why not hot water?
The hardest thing I've found to get rid of was the staining from working with green (unseasoned) oak. I used to a lot of boatbuilding work in oak, hands would be stained black for at least a couple of weeks after stopping handling the stuff, and that was before getting involved with traditional concoctions such as tar/pitch/horse muck mixes AFAIK it's to do with the acids in the timber, and is a form of staining rather than dirt per se.
Cheers Tim
The hardest thing I've found to get rid of was the staining from working with green (unseasoned) oak. I used to a lot of boatbuilding work in oak, hands would be stained black for at least a couple of weeks after stopping handling the stuff, and that was before getting involved with traditional concoctions such as tar/pitch/horse muck mixes AFAIK it's to do with the acids in the timber, and is a form of staining rather than dirt per se.
Cheers Tim
- posted
17 years ago
The only product he used, when he had his garage, was a product called
Aquasolve, a NZ product that kept my hands clean for years until the
shiney suited merger men dumped it in one of many company buyouts of
the 80s.
As for not using hot water, opens the pores and allows the grime in..
As for cleaning stained hands, nothing beats concentrated sulphuric acid, another thing my father taught me. Excellent too, for warming the hands on a cold morning. When your hands begin to warm, it's time to rinse. However not related to cleaning greasy hands.
Tom
Tom
As for cleaning stained hands, nothing beats concentrated sulphuric acid, another thing my father taught me. Excellent too, for warming the hands on a cold morning. When your hands begin to warm, it's time to rinse. However not related to cleaning greasy hands.
Tom
Tom
- posted
17 years ago
Tends to prove we all have different skin. I agree about the old green
Swarfega which is not only vicious but smells vile. I also find fairy liquid
very drying. The best I've ever found was Ecover but they now only sell it
in footling little overpriced pots. The latest orange Swarfega suits me
too..........and for removing stains and softening the hands try a quick dip
in industrial bleach!!! (No don't try this at home :-)
regards
Roland
- posted
17 years ago
It's ink from the reaction of tannin and iron.
AJH
AJH
- posted
17 years ago
For the record:- Comma Manista hand cleaner and PR88 barrier cream (when I
remember).
- posted
17 years ago
Unfortunately I dont have a choice and when at work HAVE to wear gloves, I
agree they are a pain, allen keys get trapped in the latex, you cant feel
what your doing and best of all I brought some home to use got petrol on
them and they melted :-))
I have another plus over all of you, no cost.
I have another plus over all of you, no cost.
- posted
17 years ago
I think green Swarfega is paraffin based, probably not the greatest
thing to use regularly. I do use their Tufanega, not sure if it's
basically the same apart from colour with lumps in, or not? doesn't
seem quite so agressive to the skin. Loctite Orange is good, but much
more expensive than Tufanega.
Cheers Tim
Cheers Tim
- posted
17 years ago
Mine:
Don't waste your time on latex gloves - get some of the blue _vinyl_ ones. Much more tear resistant, and there isn't the risk of latex or cornstarch allergies.
Use barrier cream. Much of the time this reduces the need for gloves at all.
Give "Lava" hand cleaner wipes a try (in the red packets). There are plenty of washroom cleaners around, but these are the only ones I've found where the wipes are effective - keep some in the car.
Stains from green oak are caused by tannic acid reacting with many other things, particularly iron. One way to shift them is with oxalic acid, such as crushed rhubarb leaves. You can use oxalic acid itself as a cleaner, but I wouldn't use it directly on skin.
PS - What's Swarfega ? Don't think I've seen that in 20 years....
Don't waste your time on latex gloves - get some of the blue _vinyl_ ones. Much more tear resistant, and there isn't the risk of latex or cornstarch allergies.
Use barrier cream. Much of the time this reduces the need for gloves at all.
Give "Lava" hand cleaner wipes a try (in the red packets). There are plenty of washroom cleaners around, but these are the only ones I've found where the wipes are effective - keep some in the car.
Stains from green oak are caused by tannic acid reacting with many other things, particularly iron. One way to shift them is with oxalic acid, such as crushed rhubarb leaves. You can use oxalic acid itself as a cleaner, but I wouldn't use it directly on skin.
PS - What's Swarfega ? Don't think I've seen that in 20 years....
- posted
17 years ago
Aren't the blue ones usually Nitrile? I used to buy them but they're
much dearer, now vinyl are readily available at much the same price as
latex. The chap who comes to do a bit for me part-time has a latex
allergy. I Hate wearing gloves, but try to do it when painting or
washing parts off.
I agree they're good, there are others which are also OK
It never bothered me that much, but friends/girlfriends/the wife did notice the difference after I'd been away from work for a while
Cheers Tim
I agree they're good, there are others which are also OK
It never bothered me that much, but friends/girlfriends/the wife did notice the difference after I'd been away from work for a while
Cheers Tim
- posted
17 years ago
Barrier cream not allowed and I do use the blue vinyl ones occasionally.
Martin P
Martin P
- posted
17 years ago
I have found over the years that you seem to get used to a brand of hand
cleaner and it doesn't work as good as when the tin was first opened.
Work around's are buy small tins [ expensive ] and keep swapping brands or
buy two larger tins of different brands and keep swapping.
Most of the older more aggressive cleaners have disappeared, I was told that it was to stop drains blocking ?? Most of the present stuff is far too waterery.
Regardless of this PC gobbledy gook I chuck a few handfuls of clean sawdust in and stir up to a decent paste. The sawdust acts as an abrasive and leaves you with clean hands. -- Regards,
John Stevenson Nottingham, England.
Most of the older more aggressive cleaners have disappeared, I was told that it was to stop drains blocking ?? Most of the present stuff is far too waterery.
Regardless of this PC gobbledy gook I chuck a few handfuls of clean sawdust in and stir up to a decent paste. The sawdust acts as an abrasive and leaves you with clean hands. -- Regards,
John Stevenson Nottingham, England.
- posted
17 years ago
Gentlemen,
I am beginning to think that long threads are only created by me, it was a silly but useful suggestion I thought I'd pass on but now we are discussing the merits of every hand cleaner known to man. I'm sorry I did not mean this to happen :-((
Martin P
I am beginning to think that long threads are only created by me, it was a silly but useful suggestion I thought I'd pass on but now we are discussing the merits of every hand cleaner known to man. I'm sorry I did not mean this to happen :-((
Martin P
- posted
17 years ago
Nah, you can claim credit for the longest recent thread, by a long
way, but this one hasn't beaten Kim's 2-stroke lubrication, or my ring
gear, just yet.
If it does, perhaps you should think positive - be proud, not
embarassed
Cheers Tim
Cheers Tim
- posted
17 years ago
Deb Chemicals have a lot to answer for...
Suprega is what we use at the factory, it is a yellow thinnish opaque cleaner with plastic granules in that help to remove dirt and grease.
All solvent based cleaners take out the natural fats in the skin, and I find that a wash afterwards with ordinary soap and a proper drying of the hands helps to prevent skin cracking, especially in the winter.
Fairy Liquid is too strong for me, although used occasionally it is OK :-))
Peter
Suprega is what we use at the factory, it is a yellow thinnish opaque cleaner with plastic granules in that help to remove dirt and grease.
All solvent based cleaners take out the natural fats in the skin, and I find that a wash afterwards with ordinary soap and a proper drying of the hands helps to prevent skin cracking, especially in the winter.
Fairy Liquid is too strong for me, although used occasionally it is OK :-))
Peter
- posted
17 years ago
Could it be the slogan about hands being as soft as the face is somehow
upsetting ??
--
Regards,
John Stevenson Nottingham, England.
John Stevenson Nottingham, England.