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Maytag Multi-Motor

Rebuild of the Maytag twin had rather stalled since Christmas, the engine basically complete on the bench but the scabby looking coil with its o/c secondary still cooking gently on a central heating radiator. Despite its condition, the mag did spark when it was last on the engine so I tested the coil with a battery in accordance with the manual and it was still ok after its extended drying out. A few coats of varnish, insulating with fungicide (def stan something or other, anyone who has worked on military electronics will recognise the smell) and it even looked ok!

So, loath as I was to build in a known fault, I cut one last gasket and screwed the whole thing together, setting the points was a good deal easier without 25 thou' play in the main bearings and I was rewarded with a reasonable spark. In deference to the new mains, I made sure the fuel was nice and oily (don't ask me the ratio, I put some pre mixed 24:1 in the tank and added a good slug of Castrol Super TT!) and went for a start. After half a dozen kicks or so there was a little half hearted pop and with about the same again plus some twiddling of the air control it burst into rather sulky life, the garden rapidly disappearing in a cloud of smoke ;-) A bit more twiddling soon had it running at around 1500 rpm in a typically rough off load two-stroke fashion. Applying a rag to the flywheel rim smoothed things out and also indicated that this is a pretty gutsy little engine, it should handle the 250W GE dynamo with ease. Shut down after about half an hour before the neighbours could get too stroppy.

Hopefully this represents the end of the 'restorers block' I seem to have been suffering from lately and I can get a few more engines up and running.

Reply to
Nick H
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I had my 72 out the other day. It is a strange beast, even for a two stroke!

It starts readily enough now I've sussed the throttle out, but I don't use the kickstart, but a rope wrapped around the pulley. As it has to suck up its petrol, I think it gives it a better chance if I can spin it over several times. I've found this with all these simple lift carbs & have them on the Iron Horses, the Westbury 80 Watt, the ex B17 Homelite and one of the Marvils. Electric start is such a Godsend!

When warm, it will start to "PHUT!" back into the crankcase and the gas appears to exit via the kickstart side main bearing, but it might be blowing back into the carb, it's hard to tell.

It is at this point that I turn it off and fit the dynamo belt (its driving a 12 Volt Lucas car dynamo) and then start it again with the kickstart.

It runs better then, even with no electrical load, but after twenty minutes or so, will begin to drop off the exhaust side cylinder, finally failing altogether. Allowing it to cool for an hour allows a repeat run!

Dunno guv ..............

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

Reply to
Kim Siddorn

Good. With no load it will run very well at 24:1, but when loaded go with the factory recommended 16:1 SAE 30

The air valve should be 1/4 turn open for cold start, and 1/2 turn open when warm. To stop, open the air valve to starve it, then return to 1/4 turn for the next start. If you shut the air valve when stopping, the next start will be excessively rich.

Get the hottest plugs you can find. (14mm x 3/8 inch reach), set for 37 thou The original Maytag twin plugs by Champion were specially made for Maytag to run hotter than the J4. A modern extended nose plug will work well.

Brent Wegher

Reply to
bw

Should start well with kicker. Sounds starved for fuel, due to partial obstruction in jet, or sticky check valve. This also causes insufficient lubrication to rings, so friction is high, overheating may weaken the coil. RPM should not drop below 1600 when loaded. Plugs must be gapped to .037 inches. Make sure the mag plate alignment is exactly centered between timing stops. Both cylinders should have same temp, if not, then try new extended nose plugs.

Reply to
bw

"bw" wrote (snip):-

You know all the dire warnings one usually sees about clearing jets with anything other than compressed air - well, the Maytag manual suggests using a No. 72 drill!

Reply to
Nick H

"Kim Siddorn" wrote (snip):-

This main contains the rotary inlet valve and there is also a tiny return groove from the oil catcher to the inlet, so it is quite possible that there could be a little leakage in that area. Mine also phuts back into the crankcase occasionally and I noticed a puff of smoke from the taper plug which gives access to the governor - I tightened it up after that, not wishing to be shot while bending over the engine!

Reply to
Nick H

"bw" wrote >

excessively

Thanks for your earlier encouragement Brent, I think I would have rushed into a coil replacement/rewind but for your comment that you had never had to replace one - who knows how long it might soldier on in its current condition.

Plugs which came with the engine are Champion - I think UJ12? - certainly looked oily after 1/2 hour or so run, but were still firing well when I shut down.

Reply to
Nick H

I was glad to see you save it. Coils are replaced too often, IMO.

I've tried them, no problems. UJ anything will work, if you can find them. Aux gaps do help. Common lawn mower J19LM is my usual plug for running. Or you could try any

2-cycle plug that fits. Maytag script plugs show up on eBay rarely. Before WW2, Champion plugs used a heat range numbering that is the opposite of the current system. Hot plugs had low numbers in those days. If one cylinder starts to miss, or runs cooler than the other, the plugs are getting fouled.
Reply to
bw

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