If you drill and pin it it won't be very strong. Has it been in contact with
sea water because that can affect cast iron.
Knowing your workshop its not beyond your abilities to manufacture one out
of say EN 24 a tough steel.
Martin P
I think salt water may well have played a part and just pray the crankcase
is not as badly affected. Doubtless I will find out when I get a welding
torch near it!
Anyone care to comment on the choice of steel and machining sequence? The
present feet have holes for pins in the (7/16 BSW) bolt heads. I fancy a
shoulder and D head bolts would be better in steel?
ttfn
Roland
Roland,
If you are going to make anything like a con rod you need to machine a small
amount of material from one side and then turn over and machine a little and
then turn over again because if you machine one side complete when you
release the clamps it will resemble a banana.
Stress relieving by heat would be helpful also.
you are looking for a tough material in steel what you don't want is
something that will work harden as this will affect its strength.
Ill look in my books for a material for you.
Mark out and machine the big and little end first that way you have a datum
to relate too also if you are splitting the big end machine to a size then
split and then finish the bore otherwise it will end up egg shaped.
Martin P
photos with it. The plaudits should come thick and fast.
Looks like a classic crystalline fracture, but it's a bit out of focus
and my eyes ain't up to that much these days... :-((
Make the whole thing out of steel is my thought, easier to do, the
engine is not exactly a high-revving screamer so forces on the rod and
bearings are fairly low, plus it's a two-stroke so one power pulse per
rev is nice and smooth.
Fabrication is another option but welding and big ends don't sit well
together IMO.
I'd be inclined to have a look at a decent bit of flat bar 4" X 1" or
4" X 1.5" and turn it between centres. You'd get a good continuous
grain for the rod along the length, and although the turning would be
tedious around the thinnest parts, especially with the interrupted
cut, you have the time!! :-))
Kind regards,
Peter
Peter Forbes
Prepair Ltd
Luton, UK
email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk
home: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk
Thanks to all for their on and off group responses. There has been a great
variety including: cast in steel, mill from solid (either mild or various
better grades) or weld up. I'll leave the final decision until I have the
crank/flywheel separate and the crankcase welded up. The BTW is in near
perfect focus its the horrible grain of the CI that makes it look otherwise
:-)
ttfn
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