Fitting lights to carriages

You use metal wheel and wipers, or if the bogies are metal, and one wheel per axle is uninsulated, you pick up from the bogies' screws. You should also use a capacitor across the pickups to reduce or eliminate the flickering that will occur as the wheels cross gaps, frogs, oops, "V crossings", and dirt (will also eliminate possible TV interferenec, altho' TV sets these days are pretty good at rejecting interference.)

But if you're going to use LEDs, you could try batteries and small slide switches underneath the carriage. LEDs consume very little current.

HTH&HF

Wolf,

Thanks for this info...now for the newbie questions...

Where do I get wipers from (or do I make them myself), and what size capacitor do I need. It seems you are suggesting not using LED's - wouldn't normal bulbs get hot and risk melting the plastic ? (that's what pointed me at the LEd idea).

the battery idea is good - I'll consider that one, but obviously I need easy access for the occasional battery change, and some careful "hiding" of the internals.

Ian

Wolf Kirchmeir wrote:

First Class Trains do a coach lighting kit, you might find an idea or two on the following url:

In addition Heathcote Electronics do a DCC kit, but the info on their web site might be of use:

Mikey K LEBW

See

Forgot to add: if you have DCC, the track will give you a constant voltage for lighting. With variable DC, a battery would be better.

Gaugemaster sell a high-frequency AC lighting unit (HF-3) that can be used to provide constant coach lighting without affecting locos. Capacitors are required to isolate the coaches from DC. Not compatible with DCC or with Gaugemaster or Relco high-frequency track cleaners.

I would avoid using wipers. They will cause increased friction on your carriages, and you may not be able to pull a reasonable length train. You are better using a pickup method through metal pin point bearings. East to do if you have metal bogies, and harder to do with plastic bogies. With plastic bogies, you can drill out the bearing, and replace it with brass top hat type pin point bearings. Before inserting these a fine wire can be soldered to them for the electrical pickup. After this modification you will need to use wheels with a shorter axle length. You can modify metal wheels, and use a split axle if you want all wheel pickup. A bit of work, not recommended for the beginner unless you have some spare bogies to practice on.

"hiding"

eliminate

interference.)