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Lift-out section advice request

I am helping a chap build a 'round the walls' layout, I suggested a single track across a hinged section as the entry point, because I've done them before.

Now we have an outer raised section crossing the gap via a bridge and he also wants a 'ground level' inner line passing across a level crossing. Never done this myself.

Plan A is now a drop-in section, using locating posts on the removable section, mating with holes in the baseboard lip.

Nowhere to put it down when he is using his walking stick(s), so power to be supplied to the track will require a feed without tethering wires, have to hand some brass I can rebate-in but was wondering about using brass tube soldered to outside of the rail (inside the web) on the lift out section. These would then 'clip' onto the rail at either end as the section dropped into position.

I avoids the (time consuming) rebating of brass strip and offers alignment of the track.

Anyone think this is a Really Bad Idea?

Regards

Mike

Reply to
Mike Smith
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My latest layout which is nearing completion has 3 hinged counter type acess points. Two of them carry three levels and the other only two. The "ground" level is a simple cut and lift. The elevated sections are simply cut at the open end but the hinged end has a short hinged bridge on each elevated track which spans the main hinge line. because they are close I have fitted a horizontal bar to lift both aux bridges in one move. The main unit is fitted with stops to prevent damage to these aux bridges -- this limits opening to about 110=B0 and is therefore stable and clear of the elbow and shoulder. The assembly is built entirely in wood.

Reply to
Sailor

Cunning! Hadn't thought of subsidiary hinges, thanks.

I'll have a good look at what he has done so far next time I am over there.

Regards

Mike

Reply to
Mike Smith

I have a friend with similar arrangement in N. We discussed how to do this, and ended up with a hinged board, with the pivots above the track level (thus ensuring the track didn't buckle as the hinge compressed it).

The far end of the hinged board drops onto a firm pad attached to the next baseboard. Cabinet maker's dowels stood vertically give accurate position laterally. Thus, the track comes to a very accurate location every time, regardless of how loose the hinges may become over time.

Electrical connection is via the hinged end, flexible wires in a flexible sheath.

Then, just cut the tracks carefully, and arrange the ends of the rails to be well supported (soldered to pins into firm baseboard, the last few sleepers have their chairs removed and are just cosmetic in-fill). There are no rail-jointers over these breaks, but it works fine; the gaps are tollerably small, the trains run reliably.

- Nigel

Reply to
Nigel Cliffe

Thanks Nigel, yes I have done something similar myself, but it was all on one level. Part of the problem is when I go over he has changed things, adding another slope for example, that means Plan A is now up to about Plan G. Strangely, given his background and evident skills, he has a disinclination for planning, but at least we have now established that a 'minimum radius' curve cannot be fettled into too small a space by 'using flexi track'. Bit of a learning curve here methinks, but the stuff he has done is done well, once we decide on something his carpentry is certainly better than mine!

Regards

Mike

Reply to
Mike Smith

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