Request for guidance

Have been asked to help a chap build a 'train set', the last one he had was
Dublo three rail tinplate. He's now terminally ill and can no longer enjoy
gardening, hence the train set idea. He has in mind a continuous run with
some shunting and perhaps a branch line. He has a room about 9ft square
(still waiting to get the accurate measurements on that)
He fancies OO, re which I know very little, hence this post, so . . .
Does anyone publish drwings showing the geometry of their track? (Fleichmann
do it in N, very handy) I need to check what is available to help him plan
the layout.
Are any of these downloadble?
Am I right in thinking that the reasonable minimum radius for reliable
running is 2ft?
Can anyone advise on track with 'clip on' point motors, I am not sure he is
up to cutting holes in baseboards or securing point motors attached via
linkage. I have had a lot of success using Fleichmann track and would
probably recommend it, but it isn't cheap!
He will need (probably) four locos, two for goods, one shunter and a
passenger engine - I am thinking of suggesting diesels as the 8 wheel pick
up on a Bo-Bo seems a good idea.
Can anyone advise one solid and reliable types, detail is not an issue,
reliability is a big issue.
In N I find I have to do a lot of track cleaning, as some of the tracks in
OO will not be easily reachable can anyone advise as to a good track
cleaning unit he could use?
I understand he has a couple of years left, if his heart medicine doesn't
kill him, so this is going to be a quick build. This does mean that Peco
foam underlay can be used, or ready-ballasted track, but I am a little
concerned about the point motors.
In short, what is out there that is bomb proof, handles tight curves and
copes with dirty track?
Any thoughts or suggestions welcome.
Reply to
Mike Smith
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Just two comments:
a) Build a round-the-room shelf layout, shelves 18-24" wide, with a lift out/swing out section for getting in and out.
The removable section is the only tricky piece of carpentry. To ensure proper alignment, use (a) suitable ledge(s) on which to rest the removable section, adjustable vertical and horizontal stops, barrel bolts or latches, and guard rails on either side of the gaps. Build the movable section and test its operation _before_ laying the track, latch it into position, and lay the track (including guard rails) across the gaps. Then cut through the track and base, and everything should be perfectly aligned. On pre-fab track, you may have to cut away the rail fastenings to make room for the guard rails. Spike/pin and glue the guard rails in place.
b) Look at Bachmann EZ track. Comes with plastic ballast, an in radii from 22" up. Turnouts are #5 and #6, and #6 cross-overs, all remote control. The point motors are built into the track, inside the ballast. Cheaper than Fleischmann. I've used it, it's good stuff. Might be just what you want.
I wish your friend well.
HTH wolf k.
Reply to
Wolf K
Hornby Railroad rolling stock is relatively inexpensive and quite sturdy. The tender locos have pickups on 6 drivers and 6 tender wheels; they run smoothly and are tolerant of insulated frogs and dirty track. Most are not DCC-ready, but that may not be an issue. I would not recommend the 0-6-0 Jinty, as it doesn't run as well as the larger locos on tight curves or uneven track. It has been discontinued for now, perhaps for reworking. See the whole range at:
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Check dealers on-line for best prices. No need to pay list price!
Reply to
"Mike Smith" wrote in news:hib5ch$585$
My dad's in exactly the same boat - in his 70s, currently in remission with pancreatic cancer - but it'll be back. I've set him up on a 6'x4' board and followed the Hornby Track plan that they do with their sets. It has two continuous loops and a bit of shunting. The pointwork has had motors attached ad operated by the wand method via a CDU.
Dad's populated it with some Metcalf buildings and some figures.
He's also making some basic rolling stock and having great fun building and kitbashing wagons to un on it.
My advice would be to do exactly as I've done. Buy a Hornby trainset, past the "Tackmat" supplied with it to a 6x4 board, motorise the points using the simplest method possible, buy teh track extension sets to make up the full "Trackmat" layout and get a second inexpensive controller for the second loop.
You'll have the whole thing running in an afternoon, he'll be as pleased as punch as he'll have a working "layout" - which he can then later customise using simple card kits to his hearts content.
I'd also be tempted to add a board around all 4 edges of the table, I have and pasted backscenes on to it. All in all it looks surprisingly good and it stops stock falling on the floor - apart from saving teh stock it saves my dad having to get on to his knees.
All so very simple it really can't go wrong.
Reply to
Chris Wilson
If you do go with the EZ Track route you can often buy it very cheap as part of Bachmann's Underground Ernie trains sets and accessories.
Fred X
Reply to
Fred X
Peco have downloadable PDF's of their points although they don't seem to have any for their Setrack range.
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Well I'd say that 2nd radius Setrack is the barest minimum that you can get away with, but Peco do a No.3 radius of 20" which you could use.
Peco have recently introduced a motor which you can attach to the side of their points and are about to introduce a new set of switches which can be used without having to use a soldering iron!
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Any Bachmann diesel should run well.
The Dapol track cleaner is supposed to be quite good
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Again any Bachmann diesel should do the job.
Fred X
Reply to
Fred X
Comes in two types: a) steel rail, black ballast, and b) nickel silver rail, grey ballast. Both code 100.
cheers, wolf k.
Reply to
Wolf K
Tis an excellent idea although if you can replace Hornby points with Peco ones then do so - they are so much better. Plus the flexi track does save money and connections for long straights or slight curvy bits. I prefer hornby flexitrack as its easier to lay being more flexible.
Cheers, Simon
Reply to
"simon" wrote in news:
All good ideas but if you keep to Hornby Stuff you may well find a retailer who is prepared to sell track recovered from a train set at a discount (and probably through in the "trackmat" for free - granted it's little more than a poster to be laid on the baseboard it does give instant ground cover) and to be frank set track is set track.
I'd use (and did use) Peco points with a cut out in the baseboard though, clipped on to the points with a piece of card in between to hide the gap. No alignment issues and as for cutting the holes 10 mins with a drill and jigsaw saw to the lot.
If the room is about 9' square try to put the short end against one wall, that gives you 18" down each side for walking/reaching purposes and a 3' strip to operate from.
Reply to
Chris Wilson
Many thanks gentlemen, I am a tad nervous as OO is not something I have much experience of (and its BIG!). Lots to think about there, but some really useful advise, for which many thanks.
BTW I have finally had a bit of free time and started the long overdue update on the GANSG website -
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Haven't updated the railway stuff but have now made a start on the Lineside Industries - Once the whole thing is up in rough I'll go back and start revising, updating and improving the lot, but it'll be a few years yet before its finished.
As always any comments or criticisms welcome.
Thanks again for the pointers, really appreciated
Reply to
Mike Smith

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