Request for guidance

Just two comments:

a) Build a round-the-room shelf layout, shelves 18-24" wide, with a lift out/swing out section for getting in and out.

The removable section is the only tricky piece of carpentry. To ensure proper alignment, use (a) suitable ledge(s) on which to rest the removable section, adjustable vertical and horizontal stops, barrel bolts or latches, and guard rails on either side of the gaps. Build the movable section and test its operation _before_ laying the track, latch it into position, and lay the track (including guard rails) across the gaps. Then cut through the track and base, and everything should be perfectly aligned. On pre-fab track, you may have to cut away the rail fastenings to make room for the guard rails. Spike/pin and glue the guard rails in place.

b) Look at Bachmann EZ track. Comes with plastic ballast, an in radii from 22" up. Turnouts are #5 and #6, and #6 cross-overs, all remote control. The point motors are built into the track, inside the ballast. Cheaper than Fleischmann. I've used it, it's good stuff. Might be just what you want.

I wish your friend well.

HTH wolf k.

Hornby Railroad rolling stock is relatively inexpensive and quite sturdy. The tender locos have pickups on 6 drivers and 6 tender wheels; they run smoothly and are tolerant of insulated frogs and dirty track. Most are not DCC-ready, but that may not be an issue. I would not recommend the 0-6-0 Jinty, as it doesn't run as well as the larger locos on tight curves or uneven track. It has been discontinued for now, perhaps for reworking. See the whole range at:

Check dealers on-line for best prices. No need to pay list price!

"Mike Smith" wrote in news:hib5ch$585$ snipped-for-privacy@news.albasani.net:

Mike,

My dad's in exactly the same boat - in his 70s, currently in remission with pancreatic cancer - but it'll be back. I've set him up on a 6'x4' board and followed the Hornby Track plan that they do with their sets. It has two continuous loops and a bit of shunting. The pointwork has had motors attached ad operated by the wand method via a CDU.

Dad's populated it with some Metcalf buildings and some figures.

He's also making some basic rolling stock and having great fun building and kitbashing wagons to un on it.

My advice would be to do exactly as I've done. Buy a Hornby trainset, past the "Tackmat" supplied with it to a 6x4 board, motorise the points using the simplest method possible, buy teh track extension sets to make up the full "Trackmat" layout and get a second inexpensive controller for the second loop.

You'll have the whole thing running in an afternoon, he'll be as pleased as punch as he'll have a working "layout" - which he can then later customise using simple card kits to his hearts content.

I'd also be tempted to add a board around all 4 edges of the table, I have and pasted backscenes on to it. All in all it looks surprisingly good and it stops stock falling on the floor - apart from saving teh stock it saves my dad having to get on to his knees.

All so very simple it really can't go wrong.

If you do go with the EZ Track route you can often buy it very cheap as part of Bachmann's Underground Ernie trains sets and accessories.

Fred X

Peco have downloadable PDF's of their points although they don't seem to have any for their Setrack range.

Well I'd say that 2nd radius Setrack is the barest minimum that you can get away with, but Peco do a No.3 radius of 20" which you could use.

Peco have recently introduced a motor which you can attach to the side of their points and are about to introduce a new set of switches which can be used without having to use a soldering iron!

Any Bachmann diesel should run well.

The Dapol track cleaner is supposed to be quite good

Again any Bachmann diesel should do the job.

Fred X

Comes in two types: a) steel rail, black ballast, and b) nickel silver rail, grey ballast. Both code 100.

cheers, wolf k.

Tis an excellent idea although if you can replace Hornby points with Peco ones then do so - they are so much better. Plus the flexi track does save money and connections for long straights or slight curvy bits. I prefer hornby flexitrack as its easier to lay being more flexible.

Cheers, Simon

"simon" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@bt.com:

All good ideas but if you keep to Hornby Stuff you may well find a retailer who is prepared to sell track recovered from a train set at a discount (and probably through in the "trackmat" for free - granted it's little more than a poster to be laid on the baseboard it does give instant ground cover) and to be frank set track is set track.

I'd use (and did use) Peco points with a cut out in the baseboard though, clipped on to the points with a piece of card in between to hide the gap. No alignment issues and as for cutting the holes 10 mins with a drill and jigsaw saw to the lot.

If the room is about 9' square try to put the short end against one wall, that gives you 18" down each side for walking/reaching purposes and a 3' strip to operate from.

Many thanks gentlemen, I am a tad nervous as OO is not something I have much experience of (and its BIG!). Lots to think about there, but some really useful advise, for which many thanks.

BTW I have finally had a bit of free time and started the long overdue update on the GANSG website -

Haven't updated the railway stuff but have now made a start on the Lineside Industries - Once the whole thing is up in rough I'll go back and start revising, updating and improving the lot, but it'll be a few years yet before its finished.

As always any comments or criticisms welcome.

Thanks again for the pointers, really appreciated

Regards

Mike

If you go with pre-ballasted track, consider laying it on grasspaper, it looks better than a TrackMat.