Paints & Spraypainting

Hi Grham

Phoenix do a special thinner for airbrushing which I have used for many years and also with other paints such a Humbrol. If the paint is thinned with white spirit then I think the Phoenix thinners should work ok, but it always worth doing a test first. Thinning is typically about 50% paint 50% thinners. The advised test is to spoon a dab onto the inside of the jar it is being mixxed in. It should run freely down, but leave a trail of colour behind. The thinners works by evporating as the paint travels from the gun to the model. The result is that several thin coats can be applied with out waiting for the first to fully dry. If painting say a coach alternating from side to side will allow the final finish to be built up in one session. For various reasons I am currently experimenting with acrylic/ water based paints. In particular the Modelflex range is so thin it can be sprayed from the bottle and has very good covering power for a paint so thin. Initial findings are that while drying times are quick you do need to allow coats to dry between applications. One advantage is that they are more enviromentally friendly than using solvent based paints.

As with most things of this nature, what one person finds as brilliant will be castigated as useless by another. The only real answer is give things a try and find what suits you.

Regards

Tony Cane

Rich said the following on 05/07/2006 10:09:

Lighter fluid can be quite good for thinning as well. White spirit is only any good for cleaning brushes, and then only followed by a wash with hot soap and water, so it doesn't have a place when spraypainting.

snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com said the following on 03/07/2006 18:31:

I tend to go about 60:40 paint:thinners, or even 70:30 depending on the paint.

Another common guide to correct consistency is that it should be the same consistency as milk, apparently. Whether that is full cream or that pale watery stuff with the green tops isn't specified... I just watch to see how it drips off the mixing wire, and knowing the right point just comes with experience.

Talking of mixing, a quick stir with a cocktail stick isn't good enough. The best method I've found (as mentioned in Bob Shepherd's book) is to bend a bit of wire into a Z shape, and stick that in a mini-drill. Run it in the tin at a couple of thousand rpm for 30 seconds to a minute, and that should do it. Just don't let go of the tin whilst doing this!

That is the best advice at the end of the day. Just do it!

Isn't lighter fluid a bit too volatile and flamable?

On 05/07/2006 18:49, MartinS said,

I wasn't planning to set light to it :-) It is very volatile, which means that it's evaporated by the time the paint hits the model, so you get a nice dense finish. This comes in particularly handy if you're spraying close up into awkward areas.

I can't remember where I heard about using lighter fluid, but it was from a reputable source!

Just through more combustable material on the fire of debate - have you ever considered if the compressor or extractor fan in your spray booth should be intrinsicly safe such the vapor from the thiners cannot be ignited by the spark from the motor brushes?

Rich

Rich said the following on 06/07/2006 23:59:

Yes. Anyone spraying volatile substances should ensure that the compressor and spray booth is safe. If you are using a spray booth, then the compressor is less of an issue as no fumes should go anywhere near it. On a home-built spray booth (such as mine once it's finished), you should use brushless fan motors, not cheap computer fans for instance.

Rich said the following on 10/07/2006 19:42:

Yup!

If you're a member of the Scalefour Society, you will be able to read about it in the not too distant future. I'm waiting for the article to be printed before I update my website. Double-sided etching isn't actually that much harder once you've got the basics sorted out - you need to keep your wits about you though when preparing the artwork!