Cast iron exhaust manifold repair....what to use?

Take a die grinder and clean up as much of both sides of the crack as possible, then preheat the whole head up to about 500 degF and then braze the crack using oxy acet.

Exhaust manifolds are very difficult to weld because they are so saturated in hydrocarbons, and are usually very thin.

It's almost impossible to get the cracked area clean enough to weld, so brazing is the better solution.

Thanks Ken and Ernie (long time, Ernie!) I assumed something like brazing was the way to go, but didn't know if I needed a special rod. Sounds like standard brazing rod, some flux and I'm good to go. Thanks much, guys.

A few weeks ago I asked for a small Tig machine reccomendation and the Thermal Arch TSW185 was reccomended, this looks almost perfect, as

After reading this NG I realize that for 1/4 Al you might need as much as 300A. Is there a machine that will do 250 or 300 A and still offer good fine control at the lowend (5A?) or have I moved into the real of two different machines?

What would someone reccomend for a 250 or 300A inverter machine? How much more is this going to cost?

Paul

At home I have a thermal arc 300 gtsw it's an older model and has done fine for 6 or 7 years with 220 power it easily puts out 250 amps and welds

at work there is a miller dynasty 300 it's a nicer machine at the low end with better pulser controls than the thermal arc but comes with a bigger price tag, can't compare the top end becouse this machine is plugged into 3 phase (more power in, more power out, better duty cycle) but it does get hotter than mine at home.

thermal arc is smaller and more portable, miller is probably better for warranty and repair service either one you'll want a cooler to do any volume over 200 amps

Dave

I have a cast iron turbo manifold, that is used on a race engine, it glows cherry red 90% of its in use time. It has a small (2 inch) crack that's propagating. Is it a waste of time trying to repair this, if you are brutally honest? I'd like to replace it with a new one, but it's obsolete now. Given an open cheque book, how would you attempt a proper repair? Thanks

Brazing is unlikely to be of much value, most brazing fillers will melt at the operating temps you are running at.

First th> >

I doubt it is cast iron or steel. More likely it is a nickel alloy. In which case it is quite weldable.

To start try sticking a magnet to it.