Does anyone know of a reasonable "colour" (oh alright, color) chart on line anywhere that relates roughly temperature to color ? I have a white hot thing I would like to correlate to reality instead of using a thermocouple (which keeps melting)
The first one pretty well agrees with what I am seeing, the second is "off" IME. The system is melting Type B Pt/Pt-Rh thermocouples for fun, which I take to mean its WELL over 1900 C when they fail.
One would think that all you'd see then is 'white'. Surely there are radiometric measurement systems that can look at the intensity and give you a reading, much like a bolometer only less meltable?
Tim, I have some sort of a "bolometer", military surplus, you sound like a person who may need one, I can give it to you for free (you would pay for shipping only).
Try searching for optical pyrometer. You can make one fairly easily. You just need a regulated power supply and a light bulb. You look thru the light bulb and adjust the current to the light bulb until the filament is invisible. Filament cooler than surface, then it shows up darker than the surface. Filament hotter than the surface, then it shows up as brighter.
Of course you need to calibrate your device. You can use kiln cones, but remember they are not quick to respond.
H> Does anyone know of a reasonable "colour" (oh alright, color) chart on
We are building instruments for measuring the viscosity of liquid glass and metals. The furnace is made of graphite, and is about the size of a soda can. We pump 7kW continuous into it, and it gets hot, fairly fast. There is a platinum thermocouple in the wall, and for some reason it reads wildly off - like 400 degrees COLDER than it should.
Following this thread, I have just ordered a 1000 dollar Raytex IR pyrometer, so I don't have to be anywhere near the furnace with anything very expensive that can melt.
Thanks for all the help and answers, which was rather OT for sci.welding.
Ok - let look at what you said - no hits - just hints.
You have a nice furnace. Sounds electric for nice inputs.
Putting a sensor inside a wall isolates it from the IR heat. It is also closer to the cooler outside.
If you need most of the inside for the object to be heated, see if a small shelf can be installed - and have the work put on the shelf while the thermo sensor either under or pinned over the work but inside the cavity.
Having a gun is a good idea - always have multiple sensors for verification.
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