electrode-holder on short light cable for positional weld

May 19, 2010 13 Replies

Hi everyone



Busy practicing pipe-welding - want to make a "stinger".



[electrode-holder on short length of small-section cable - so light and manipulable for positional welding]

Any suggestions?



Best electrode holder for positional & pipe?



Length of cable - 2m (6foot)?



Size / cross-section of this cable - for up to 100 (2.5mm/3/16" electrode) or 125A (positional 3.2mm/1/8" electrode)?



Best electrode holder? Seen this

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electrode holder, which is offered by local welding supplier



Intend put DINSE (bayonet) connection onto current welding cable and likewise "stinger" to connector.



Thanks in advance for advice about your favourite set-ups.



Rich Smith


HI,

I have one of those made in Norway electrode holders it doesn't seem to look exactly like that but likely is an older model. It is the largest one for sure from the size of the opening for the welding lead. It will not hold a

5/32 electrode without grinding a taper on the end of it which can be a pain. I would think if a 1/0 wire is attached to it it ought to accommodate that size electrode. Mine has some brass sheet formed into it near where the electrode connects which seems to have be discontinued but must add lifespan. I suggest verifying that if you expect to use some larger electrodes. I like it but find the kind which screws down on the electrode and has more of a hockey stick shape both gives me a place for finger and allows the rod to be better used in the last inch when I don't want to stop. I don't really weld pipe though. Don't have any comment on the other issues.

Fran

Personally I prefer Short Stub holders

In the U.S. a "stinger" is a electrode holder and what you're making is a "whip". Lots of guys use very, very light welding lead for a whip (like #4) the short length involved will handle some pretty high stick current just fine), whatever electrode holder you have available will work. JTMcC.

I made a light-duty holder so I can hold the rod like a pencil. I find it works well. A picture is at

Cheers,

JTMcC - thank-you for setting me straight on terminology and details

Steve - what you show in your picture is exactly what I was thinking of. How did you come by this design? How is it made?

Anyone - is this design used and does anyone else reckon the type performs well? Is it only useful for little rods like 2.5's (3/16")?

Rich Smith

I used to hold the rod (when it was long) rather than the handle so I experimented with a lightweight cable and clamp and developed the idea from there.

The holder is made from a 40mm length of 12mm brass rod and 60mm of thin-walled brass tube (K&S product from model shops). The tube will just fit over the cable (7mm OD). The cable is 6 gauge flex and about

2m long. It is rated at 70 amps but I have no problems using it at 100 amps.

With the brass rod I left 12mm (the exposed portion) and turned the rest down so it would fit inside the tube and then drilled this portion to take the bared end of the cable. The cable is soft-soldered into the drilled rod and then the tube is pushed over the turned part of the rod to make a rigid holder 72mm long. I then pushed a length of PVC tube over the brass tube and then a length of heat-shrink tube over the entire holder. To hold the rod I drilled a 2.6mm hole slightly below centre and then drilled and tapped a hole for the M4 bolt that locks the stick. My current holders have a big plastic head on the bolt so I can release/lock sticks by hand.

This holder is for little rods only. For bigger rods I use a standard holder (stinger).

Cheers,

I wasn't "setting you straight" Rich, just letting you know the U.S. terminology. You're in the UK right?

JTMcC

My personal favorite...

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But then...Ive worked around pipeliners for a very long time.

And yes..you can place a 10' piece of smaller cable on your bigger cable. In fact..I simply run a permanant splice on the end of my big cables with the above holder on a piece of nice flexible bit of either #2 or usually #4. Shrug

Gunner

Hi JTMcC - that's right - I'm in the UK. The "centre of gravity" is with North American practice here on s.e.j.w. There's a very "have a go" attitude to things particularly in the US, isn't there? I'm here solidly surrounded by UK traditions.

I wasn't offended JTMcC - I literally meant thanks! I had actually heard slightly wrong what N.Am. terminology is. "Stinger" and "whip" was exactly it.

Rich Smith

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Aright - that looks a good design...

Web-searching what you might mean by "splice". See these things where drilled recess in block of brass, grub-screw clamping cable in place

Rich Smith

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Ayup. I simply make my own, shrug..I have a bit of machinery. Though I usually make them of bronze, simply because I can beat them around a bit longer than normal brass before having to replace them. And Ive a bit of bronze tucked away, here and there.

Gunner

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The Lincoln T-300 is the standard pipeline electrode holder because it's long, light, fast for rod changes (where speed rules the day) and uninsulated so it runs a lot cooler than an insulated holder. But you have to not stick it to the pipe being it has no insulation. Once you become accostomed to using a pipeline electrode holder, insulated models are a real aggrivation. Plus it might be hard to find in the UK.

JTMcC.

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Most of the guys here in Californias Central Valley oil patch use it..or the one I linked to. And Id say more use the one I linked to. Shrug

But then..we are an odd bunch...shrug

Gunner

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