I have a very nice 5x10x3/4" steel plate, out of which I am making an
industrial welding table. The only problem, is that there are two
holes in the table appx 2x2 inches. I would like to fill them with
weld material and grind flush, so thatr the holes would "disappear".
My idea was to take a graphite plate and use it as a backing bar, and
fill with MIG. The graphite would be something like a 1" plate. Would
that work, or would the plate crack from thermal stress?
Ig, that's just crazy. Cut some rough pieces slightly thicker or the
same thickness as the plate that reduce the amount of weldment you must
do. If the pieces are exactly the same thickness, shim them up a little
(just a few thou) from the 'bottom', so they stand proud enough to grind
Don't waste your good graphite block on that. A thick piece of aluminum
behind the weld will resist bonding of the weldment.
But DON'T waste all that wire! Frag off a piece of scrap, and fill up
the holes, sans just a scant 1/16" of clearance all-around.
Clamp the 'slugs' until they're tacked down on four opposing places. If
you cannot clamp them, then LIGHTLY tack one side, beat the piece down
flush, then lightly tack the other. Repeat at 90-degrees to the first
two. Then tack a bit more heavily before really burning in on a full
On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 18:42:43 -0500, Ignoramus28701
Thats going to take a LOT of wire to fill. You would be better off
cutting a couple plugs, beveling top and bottom well..and welding them
in, then grinding them flat. In either case...both will be visible
under some definition of "visible".
I agree with the other guys about cutting a plug for each hole, and
beveling the edges for a v-groove around the perimeter.
My main problem with it is you are going to cup your plate with all
that weld heat, which would defeat the purpose of a big flat weld
I'd leave them to clamp through or make tools that sit through and
register on the flats for orientation.
Consider the holes and uses in quality Anvils.
On 10/10/2013 6:42 PM, Ignoramus28701 wrote:
On Monday, October 14, 2013 6:29:49 PM UTC-4, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Ernie has an article on making anvils that describes how to make a Hardie H
ole. Might be applicable here.
" Pritchel and Hardie Holes
The pritchel hole can be drilled.
To create the hardie hole, take 4 small pieces of 1/4 in. plate steel that
together form a small tapering box. The interior of this box will be the ha
rdie hole. I make mine with a taper from 1-1/4" square, at the top, to 1" s
quare, at the bottom, over a 2" drop. By making the smallest size of the ho
le 1" square, you can make hardie tools by simply welding pieces of 1" squa
re steel tubing to the bottom of your jigs. Once you have the pieces welded
together into a box. Torch cut a hollow in the heel of the anvil that allo
ws the hardie hole box to be placed about 1/4" proud of the surface of the
anvil. Tack weld it in place. Flip the anvil over and back fill around the
box till you have completely fused the box to the anvil. If the bottom of t
he hardie hole isn't flush with the bottom of the heel, then a short length
of 1-1/2" square steel tubing can be used to extend it. Grind it off flush
top and bottom, and everyone will wonder how you cut such a nice square ta
pering hole in the anvil. It's up to you if you choose to tell how you did
The Hardie Hole in the process of being welded into the anvil from the face
side. The box is placed so it protrudes through the anvil face by 1/4". To
You can drill 1 or 2 pritchel holes, depending on your preferences. I like
to have either one hole 3/8" Dia.. or 2 holes, 5/16" and 1/2" diameter. The
se are drilled so there is about 3/8" of steel left to the edges of the hee
l. Pritchel holes are used for punching holes, bending small bar stock, and
mounting plates. If the holes get filled with hardfacing it is possible to
clean out the hardfacing with a cutting torch from the underside.
The Hardie Hole with box installed. Bottom View
Drawing showing construction of the Hardie Hole Box and the hole cut in the
anvil. Be certain to cut enough from the underside of the anvil to allow s
olid welding of the box throughout the anvil heel. Box
View of the Hardie Hole with most of the filler rod welded around it. Best
to do this in a few sessions to allow the machine to cool down. I would est
imate that it took at least 3 pounds of rod into the hole gap. Bottom View
This view shows the short length of 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" thin wall steel tubing
that was used to bring the bottom of the Hardie Hole flush with the bottom
of the heel. Bottom View w/Tubing
View showing the tubing welded in and ready for grinding. Bottom View Compl
The Hardie and Pritchel Holes finished. Hardie & Pritchel Holes I should ha
ve made the Pritchel hole the same way as the Hardie. It is very hard to dr
ill through the hard face - almost impossible. "
Again this is part of an article on how to make an anvil by Ernie.
On Thursday, October 10, 2013 7:42:43 PM UTC-4, Ignoramus28701 wrote:
ustrial welding table. The only problem, is that there are two holes in the
table appx 2x2 inches. I would like to fill them with weld material and gr
ind flush, so thatr the holes would "disappear". My idea was to take a grap
hite plate and use it as a backing bar, and fill with MIG. The graphite wou
ld be something like a 1" plate. Would that work, or would the plate crack
from thermal stress? i
Kind of sounds like you're talking about a road plate, with a pair of adjac
ent holes to allow a hoist to hook onto it...usually "D" shaped, cut with a
torch to leave a straight bar between them.
I second the notion of leaving them for clamping. If you wanted to fancy i
t up, if anything I'd put in more, but maybe that's just me.
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