Hacking the Harbor Freight TIG

Steve, I have one of the Harbor Freight TIG machines and hav had ideas along the same lines. I haven't had time to dig into it enough to make mods yet, though I have a pot and cables ready to install for a remote current control. So far the schematics I have found are prety lame. I was considering an HF add on but I got used to the lift arc approach and it is not really a problem to start an arc reliably. I have used it to weld on coffee cans at about the lowest setting on the dial.

Someone else asked about the torch. It is a standard TIG torch and parts are redily available. I have even bought gas lens and collets for it.

Glenn

Reply to
Glenn
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"Ignoramus17256" wrote in message news:_rcbf.2786$ snipped-for-privacy@fe63.usenetserver.com... | On Sun, 06 Nov 2005 00:27:16 GMT, carl mciver wrote: | >

| > The frequency that drives the output transformer is most likely set up | > on the main board. If you could figure out what controls that frequency, | > you could skip the output diodes and that will be your AC output, and | > override the original frequency control. | | For a tig welder that is small, with a small transformer, the | frequency may well be extremely high. | | > I don't know how to keep the HF from feeding back through the diodes | > when in DC, considering the space on the machine, other than adding a switch | > to take them out of the circuit. | | You can see how it is done in my welder | | | HF transformer | -----------------------------|-------|---/\/\/\/\/\/\/\------ tig torch-- | |( | | | |) |recti | | |( Simply having a second set of output | > terminals wouldn't do the job. There could be some bypass caps around the | > diodes, but that would have to take some thought, obviously, once you know | > all the other variables. | > A pair of 555 timers, or a 556 dual timer, IIRC, is enough to provide | > you variable frequency and duty cycle, so just needs the section to drive | > the output. If you could control the frequency from the main board, as | > noted above, but the duty cycle would have to be controlled | > afterwards. | | the problem with 555 timers is, it is hard to control frequency and | duty cycle separately. | | I actually made a timing circuit which fully works, based on XR2206 | chip. Here I can control frequency with a 11 position switch switching | the caps, and duty cycle with a regular pot.

I haven't messed with stuff like that in many, many years, so practical experience is lacking, and I'm sure technology has helped a bit in the following years. You might be right.

| > If you replaced the diodes with SCR's, and some logic circuitry to | > prevent both a short if both sides are on at the same time, then you | > could do both with the output diodes, be they SCR's, IGBT (which I | > think they already are,) or whatever device you prefer. This way | > your could skip the above bypassing of the diodes and just use them | > to provide the frequency (although likely square wave, with whatever | > smoothing the HF transformer adds.) | >

| | I am not sure what you mean here. If you want to make adjustable | frequency, then you have to rectify first and chop later, no? The | power transformer is made for a particular frequency. Am I mistaken?

Well, transformers operate in a range of frequencies, with one particular one, or division of one, better, with diminished efficiency the farther away you get from that. The small transformer likely inside might be a higher frequency than we'd like, but that can be dealt with. Testing will tell what it is, since the manual won't. You're right about the rectification first then the output control; I had two parallel trains of thought going on in my head at the time and crossed the wires a bit.

Reply to
carl mciver

I have collared the kid guitarist next door, and bribed him to get me a "dead" wah-wah pedal from one of his less competent friends that I can hack into mine too. It should be easy to make it run on pedal or front panel with the switching in a 1/4" jack.

JOINING ? or running a bead on the outside ?

Steve

Reply to
Steve

Exactly. The design of the transformer depends on the frequency of operation, since the rates of change of flux is one of the determining parameters in said design.

The welder is "just" like a PC powersupply. High voltage low frequency is rectified into high voltage DC ( this is efficient, since filtering capacitors "work better" (store more energy) at high voltages. This is then chopped up into very high frequency AC (into high kilohertz probably) and used to drive the power transformer, to create high frequency, low voltage ACon the secondary (introducing supply isolation_. This is finally rectified and smoothed before being fed to the load/torch. I don't know how the active current control is achieved. Is there a sense resistor somewhere in the output circuit ?

To make it AC "just" needs a high current bridge on the output.

Steve

Reply to
Steve

Both. I burned up a lot of coffe cans before I got the hang of it. I was even able to fill holes in the coffee cans. Remote current control would help a bunch her though. I plan to put the remote on the handle as a foot pedal is not conducive to working on body panels etc. I want it to be more than just a bench machine. I have a dialarc 250 with HF that makes a good bench machine. Glenn

Reply to
Glenn

Glenn wrote: >I plan to put the remote on the handle as a foot

How would you do that ? A knob or a slider ? What kind of gas flow do you need by the way ? Do you need to adjust it at the torch, or could you do it on the bottle regulator ?

Steve

Reply to
Steve

I agree with this description.

I am not sure how current control works, unfortunately.

Yes, and some snubbers too, and the gate drive circuit.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus29245

The handle has a valve for adjusting flow but I don't use that. I have a slider pot I intend to velcro to the handle. The welder post flow seems to do ok so I just let the regulator on the tank set the flow and the solenoid in the welder turns it on and off. Glenn

Reply to
Glenn

Hi Glenn, Thanks for your comments. I have learnt 500% more about TIG over the weekend !

Typical gas flow rates ? A howling gale out of the torch or a gentle zephyr ?

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

Steve,

I've been reading the Miller Tig Handbook, found here:

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It lists 15 cfh as the recommended flow rate for 1/16 to 1/8 mild steel. I've been using that setting, with the valve at the torch full open, and the valve at the regulator/flowmeter adjusted to provide that flow.

Roger.

Reply to
renns

Hi Roger,

Is that in a gas cooled torch too ? Thanks Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

I have been scouring the net looking for schematics and here is one I found today:

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Reply to
Mkulikow

Steve,

Good question! They only listed a single flow rate, so I suppose that'd be for the liquid-cooled torch? I'd have to go back and take a look. I've only done small welds with it thus far, and haven't noticed any issues. What are the first symptoms of an overheated torch?

Roger.

Reply to
renns

Hmm, Dunno. Hole in gloves and a burning sensation in your fingers ;-)

Steve

Reply to
Steve

I'm hoping something comes before that??? Would the ceramic cup show any damage at higher-than-normal operating temps?

Roger.

Reply to
renns

I doubt it, the ceramic COULD glow quite brightly and happily if it wanted to. THEN of course, it would start conducting heat into the teflon (?) insulator above it.

Come on, this group is full of expert welders. Help out the new guys folks !

Steve

Reply to
Steve

I am no expert but I have run my HF torch at the max setting for quite a long practice session or 2. The only things I have noticed is that the handle gets pretty warm though unnoticable through the glove. The collett turns color a bit. I have not run it long enough to trip the over temp circuit but I think you would trip the overtemp on the welder before the torch overheats. I have had the ceramic glowing nicely several times without damaging the teflon. YMMV Glenn

Reply to
Glenn

Hi Steve,

I'm also in the UK and toying with getting a TIG. I have MIG & do vehicle restoration as a hobby. How did you go about getting this one from the States? ie ordering, P & P, import duty etc? What model number is it, could you provide a link please? 200 bucks sounds great. What did it cost you in UKP total?

I could set up another email account (to get the spam) if that would be any better

Many thanks Balders

Reply to
Balders

Hi "Balders". My email addresses are real. Contact me off list if you like.

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

Incoming! Cheers

Reply to
Balders

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