hardfacing

Arrived home to find my front yard completely destroyed by a backhoe. It started the day before I left. Failed leach field. Built on a caliche
base, so no drainage. This guy dug deep through the caliche, but didn't get through it. We are going to meet tomorrow to see if we are going to fracture it with dynamite, or if we can bore some big holes and punch through the caliche.
Anyway, he broke some ripper claw teeth. Haven't seen them yet, so don't know the degree of destruction. But I imagine that they could be built up with 7018, then hardfaced. I did it once before on some. A lot of welding, but it works.
My questions are about hardfacing. I have never burned a hardface rod. I am assuming that they run like a 7018, and that one needs to keep a short arc, keep the arc in the puddle, and other things normally done with 7018. Am I right? Any concerns about laying this over a layer of 7018? I can do then in the flat position, so would it be good to crank up the amperage? Should I consider 11018? I am going to get some drill pipe soon to build pole barn structures, and 11018 was suggested to avoid cracking.
Help and pointers appreciated. Brands of rods? Things to AVOID?
Steve
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You should follow instructions on the hardface rod, which sometimes ask to put a layer of soft metal or stainless underneath. If in doubt, call the mfr. I have some hardface rod for sale (Cobalarc).
i
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and stainless too
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Steve Since drain fields work on evaporation and not so good in soil with low permeability I would look into a mound system. Steve P
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Up North wrote:

Or an aerobic system.
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What's that Lassie? You say that Steve B fell down the old sci.engr.joining.welding mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue by Sun, 21 Feb 2010 17:03:07 -0800:

I don't have much experience, but the last time I used hardfacing rod(Liclon ABR) I had to keep a longer arc than I thought. If I got too close, the arc would go out, but the rod wasn't stuck. The puddle kind of foamed up. Ran nice beads though. I could get closer to the edge of the plate without burning through or drooping over. The sheet that the LWS gave me mentioned not letting the part get too hot. The beads need to cool quick to harden. Beads from some other rods for impact service will work harden in use, so it doesn't mater as much.
Practice on a piece of scrap for a while and you should have no trouble finding the right heat and technique.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.
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There are about eleventy seven hard surfacing rods. They do not all run the same. Unlike most welding, you do not want a lot of penetration. The more penetration, the more mixing of the hard surface rod with the parent metal. You want the hard surface material to adhere, but not to mix a bunch with the base metal.
Talk to your welding supply store about what they stock and what the various rods are best suited for. Then look at the website for the rod you pick for info on how best to apply. I used some hard surface rod to make a hot shoe for a motorcycle racer. As I remember it was a tube with carbide inside. I believe I used oxyacet for it. I used some different smaw rods to put a layer on a small anvil. As I remember I used a long arc for that.
You might check Ebay and Craigslist for hard surface rod. The stuff is expensive.
Dan
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My experience is that there are dozens of different rods, each one does something very well, other things not so well or even terrible. Some want soft/tough underbead, some want fast chill, some want 2 layers max, some are OK with deep fill. Check with the manufacturer for detailed instructions.
I might add that ripper teeth might get any one of 3 or 4 different rods from the same manufacturer, the exact one recommended depending on the typical soil encountered or even the operator's touch on the controls.
Steve B wrote:

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