HOLE in ductwork

I'd use tin snips to trim a sheet metal patch. Use rivets to install, seal with caulk. There's NO WAY to control all those welding sparks (and heat) and you will burn the place to the ground. Don't do it.

"TennisShoes" wrote in news:794Ef.13421$Ix.11126@trnddc07:

install,

What Caulking would you recommend? It has to be heatPROOF it is almost directly under the furnace's burner (hottest part of duct...)? As far as "controlling sparks..." The area in question is on the bottom side of the duct; so sparks would fall to the ground ( crawl space under trailer), there's no insulation around for the sparks to land in ... I've already verified the safety of the operation... I'm just looking for verification that a "130 MIG" will do the function without burning more of the duct than it is repairing

The 130 MIG will do it, but I agree with using pop rivets and caulk. The regular silicone rubber caulk ( not the latex caulk with silicone ) will work just fine. If you think it won't, then use the red silicone rubber gasket stuff sold at auto stores for high temp applications.

If you want to play with the 130 MIG welder, just do it. But don't use it to weld galvanized duct work. The zinc fumes will make you sick and the area where the zinc is burned off will rust.

Dan

I suggest removing the duct, and welding on it on the outside of the house. It could be cheaper to let someone in a shop weld a patch on it than to rent the 130 MIG.

snipped-for-privacy@krl.org wrote in news:1138811420.303085.297880 @g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

silicone )

silicone

Thank you for the advice

"Dixon Ranch" wrote in news:996Ef.21505$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net:

sparks

duct...)?

looking

Thanks for the advice

I suggest using a stainless patch. I'm almost willing to bet that the hole you are repairing is directly due to the fact that it is so close to the heat. If you repair it with the same material, it is just a matter of time until it happens again. Make the patch large, and seal the lap joint with silicone, and use rivets. That way the sealer will not be near the heat.

Jess,

The welder is overkill to the 10th power. You are dealing with 24-26 gage sheetmetal, if it is that heavy. Fashion yourself a nice patch 2-3" bigger all around than the hole, rivet or screw it in place after applying a good bead of clear 100% silicone caulk. The heat off of the furnace is no more than 200F,(that's where most all furnace manufacturers set their high limits) well with in the acceptable range for pure silicone. Duct tape any insulation back into place and you are done.

regards, Jim C Roberts

"Jim C Roberts" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

J.R. Thanks for the advice...

And thanks aga Here's the planned fix... ( mainly 'cause the materials are already "on-hand" 8^) )

1. Cut patch (patches?) from a roll of stainless roof "flashing".
2. Temporarily tape in place...
3. Drill holes for "pop-rivets" (neighbor has rivet tool)
4. Install rivets; remove temporary tape
5. Use "hi-temp" (automotive head-gasket silicone gasket "sealant". (same neighbor has some gasket sealant) to seal exterior edges of patch(es?)...NOT planning to put sealant between patch and duct as that may cause patch to NOT seal tightly against duct... the hole "wraps around" a corner of the duct... won't be able to apply pressure beyond what the rivets will provide... at least it is an external corner and not an internal corner...
6. Cook dinner for neighbor
7. Pray that this is the only hole

"Jessica" wrote: (clip) 6. Cook dinner for neighbor (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Aha! If we had known you had a good-looking neighbor with a pop rivet tool, we would have butted out sooner.

Number 6 should read: cook dinner for helpful folks on news group.

Good luck!

I would probably do it slightly differently. I would put sealant between the patch and duct before pop riveting. The pop rivet will apply a fair amount of pressure. Try this one a couple of pieces of scrap to see if it is really a good idea or not. One test is worth a hundred theories.

I would also drill a hole and then pop rivet that hole. And go on to the next hole. Any small shift in the patch will make it a pain to get the pop rivet in the hole. And you aren't likely to drill all the holes and not accidently put some sideways force on the patch.

Dan

T.S. , I'd take you all up on that; but, alas, the whole idea of this Internet/Usenet/Newsgroup thing is to maintain anonymity..! Thanks again...

snipped-for-privacy@krl.org wrote in news:1138856786.455025.277210 @g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Points well taken... Thanks again, Dan

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in news:TcgEf.320196 $ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

I never said he was good-looking! Simply has a "pop-riveting" tool

maintain anonymity? Whatever for????

Gunner

"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."

- Proverbs 22:3

wrote: (clip) I would put sealant

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Doing it that way, you may find that it is difficult to get the patch close enough to reliably start the pop rivets before squeezing. So, I suggest using sheet metal screws to pull the patch into position and hold it, and then proceed to do the pop riveting.

Screw, pop, dinner . . Sounds like a deal!