Linkage rebuild

Hi, I,m renovating a carburetor off an old air cooled VW and one of the fuel pump linkage rods is quite worn. It,s just a steel rod about 4 mm diameter which has worn down to about half that over 10 mm length with wear. Any idea on the best way to build it back up to over the original diameter? . Obviously then I can linish it back to original diameter. Asked a machine shop and their response was something as small as that would just vapourise with their equipment. Hope this is not too off topic Thanks in advance John

Reply to
John
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Wouldn't the best approach be to make a new one? Piece of 1/8" rod about 3/8 long. Mash, drill, or shape whatever head or end might be needed

Reply to
DanG

As the other post said, my first thought would be to replace it. But if it's a mild steel rod, sure you can just weld material to it and then use a lathe to turn it down or a grinder or a hand file. Or cut out the worn section and weld in a replacement.

Welding on something that small is not easy, but with TIG it can be done. But it's going to be a tricky operation and you will most likely end up with an over sized blob which will require a lot of time consuming work to get it back to the 4mm round rod shape.

Do the ends have some type of special attachments you can't easily replace that will just keep you from replacing it with another rod? It's a lot easier to get a new rod and bend it into shape than to try to add material to something that small. If you can find a welder with the skill to do this for you, he's probably going to charge you a small fortune for the work.

Reply to
Curt Welch

As others mentioned, starting from scratch is probably easier.

If not, I would cut the eng> Hi,

Reply to
RoyJ

Or using silver solder, 'sister' another rod alongside the original, sort of like a splint.

Reply to
emmo

How about a sleeve that fits over the rod. It could be attached if needed by filling with lead or solder - creating a tight fit.

Martin

Mart> Hi,

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Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

Thanks Gents, your suggestions had crossed my mind but not knowing how difficult it was to rebuild with weld I wasn,t sure which way to jump. There is a right angle in the piece and some small split pin holes but even so making a new one seems the go. Many thanks John

Reply to
John

It=92s hard to give advice if you can=92t see what you=92re dealing with. My guess is that the linkage looks something like #28 in the assembly drawing of this carburetor:

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upon what tools you have, you could fabricate a new linkage from scratch (maybe using 20d box nails or 6 AWG steel wire). The linkage shown has a rather sharp bend, so I=92d probably weld two nails shanks together after I had cut slots on my lathe for the snap rings. Also you probably need to put a burr on the shaft for the washer holding back the spring. Alternatively, if you want to rebuild the worn part, you could find someone with a TIG welder and lay filler wire against the worn section and build it up. You just need to find someone with a TIG welder who is comfortable working on small parts or delicate parts. (Some TIG welders like to show off their finesse by welding aluminum soda pop cans together.) I=92d also be careful about putting too much heat into the linkage because you could round the edges on the slots for the snap rings. (Keep the ends protected and cool.) From what I gather, these linkages got worn out from hitting the back sides of the alternators on those engines. The carburetors were originally designed with engines having DC generators, and the problems arose when larger AC alternators replaced them. Some people solved the interference problem by grinding areas on the alternator and others raised the carburetor up with an intake manifold spacer.

Reply to
Denis G.

Thanks Denis. Its the exact part but in the Type 3 carbies, the 32 PDSIT. Not being a IT expert at all I didnt want to attach a photo to the NG (bad form I understand) but wasnt sure how to direct one to elsewhere?. Yes though , the worn end is the one on the long side of the L shaped rod where you can see the split pin hole. The continual movement thtrough the accel pump bracket wears the shaft away. Thanks again for advise John

Reply to
John

Hi John.

Get a replacement of a scrap carb. Try asking on rec.auto.aircooled (I think it's summat like that, I'm at work and can't access it from here)

I will try and remember to check from home & post later if you don't find it. Someone might post you a spare linkage.

Good luck fella.

Balders ('75 Bug, '78 Bay - Subaru powered ;) )

Reply to
Balders

rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled

HTH

Reply to
ElusiveStranger

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