Next question , water coolers

I have 2 refrigerated water fountains at the house in Memphis , both have cracked <frozen> water receptacles . But both also have intact refrigeration
systems ... I'm considering using one as a basis for a water cooler for my 18 torch - is this overkill ? I can adjust the temp setpoint up from icycold , what's a good target temp ? I think the hardest part will be gettingv the refr system out of the coolers intact , they're both charged with R12 and that stuff is almost as precious as gold these days . If this works out , the only thing I'll need to buy <that's more than a couple of bucks> will be a pump .
--
Snag
Dad was a
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

They ought to work just fine..as long as the coils will hold 60psI or more of water pressure. No need to cool the water to Slurpee temps. Most "chillers" have Zero refridgeration, they simply have a pump, a fan and a small radiator.
Gunner
--
""Almost all liberal behavioral tropes track the impotent rage of small
children. Thus, for example, there is also the popular tactic of
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Greetings Terry, I built my own water cooler. I bought the gear pump from Grainger. The pump is actually a pump and motor assembly. The pump is made by Teel. The pump I have is now discontinued. Anyway, all you need is a carbonator gear pump and tank of water. Actually, there are carbonator pumps that appear to be vane type pumps that would probably wark just as well. And they can be had for less than 50 bucks online. My tank is aluminum, measures 18" x 12" x 4" and is filled with water and some anti-freeze type stuff for water cooled torches. I have never had a problem with the torch overheating even when welding aluminum at 300 amps. So your fridge idea is overkill. Eric
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Monday, July 22, 2013 12:22:51 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@whidbey.com wrote:
So your fridge idea is overkill.

I agree with Eric. You have too many things to do. So do not spend time o n a water cooler. We are on a well here, so water is not costly. So I jus t use tap water and run the water from the torch to someplace away from the house. If the summers were dry, I would run it to the garden, but we hav e been getting a lot of rain.
Dan
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@whidbey.com wrote:

The number one thing to remember is that the cooler needs to be reliable at pushing water through the torch at up to ~60psi. If you loose water flow while welding you will destroy the power lead to the torch.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I have, on my welder, a fuse that is cooled by the water flow. The coolant actually flows through the fuse and cools the fusible link by direct contact. It blows very fast when there is no coolant. The fusible link is easily replaced when blown and they are pretty cheap. Saved my torch more than once. See the link: http://www.ckworldwide.com/fuse_block.htm The fuse described in the link is similar to the one on my machine. I use the one that bolts to the power lug on the welder. I did not know about the inline ones. Eric
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@whidbey.com wrote:

Nice, I'll have to see about getting one. Whenever I turn on the Syncrowave I always stick my head behind it and check the paddlewheel flow indicator on the Coolmate V3 to be sure there is flow.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I also have a flow indicator visible from the front of the welder. Before I built my cooler I just used water from the tap. I did forget to turn on the water a couple times and that's when the fuse saved my torch and cables. My cooler is plugged into the welder so it comes on whenever the welder is on. When stick welding I unplug it since I'm already opening the welder cover to change the settings from TIG to Stick. I still wouldn't run a water cooled torch without the fuse though because the fuse is so much cheaper and easier to replace than replacing the cable and /or torch. Eric
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The best source for water cooler pumps is
http://www.depcopump.com/
I have used a water pump on a 5 gallon bucket for the last 12 years.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 22/07/2013 23:12, Terry Coombs wrote:

Do you really need to go below room temperature? If insted you would be happy with pumping lukewarm water through the torch then some sort of radiator (maybe old aircon coils or heater core from a car) or just a big tank of water ought to do.
I wonder how many watts of heat the water fountain refrigerator can move from the evaporator to the condenser. I would guess not more than five times the wattage of the motor, more likely three times. I would also guess that the welder could put out a lot more heat than the amount the refrigeration system could move happily, unless your welding task is very intermittent or low current, (in which case a bucket ought to do as it wouldn't have time to heat up much).
Whatever you build, I hope it works well.
Chris
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.