out of posstion /overhead welding , help.

Hi guys,

what is the secret with overhead out of possition welding ? i was attempting to weld ...over head 1/4 inch mild steel (lap joint) then the same material in vertical position had to move from top toward the bottom . I was using a stick welder, 1/8 " rod , 6011 and 7014 , tried AC and DC as well with not so good result. vertical was a bit better than the overhead.

what is the secret to keep the molten metal in place ?

thanks

Reply to
acrobat-ants
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6011 and 7014 couldn't be more different

6011 requires a whipping motion, especially in vertical up and overhead. You make a weld puddle then whip the end of teh electrod up along the weld seam, and then back down to make another puddle on top of the last one. By whipping you maintain the arc, but it allows the puddle to freeze each time. When done it should look like a stack of pancakes in a corner.

7014 can run any direction but has lousy penetration. On materiel 3/16" and thinner it can run a really pretty vertical down bead. It doesn't have near the ductility of 6011.

I run them both DC Electrode Positive.

For 1/8" electodes around 110 amps for Vert Up and Overhead and 130 amps for flat.

.
Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Vertical welding is from bottom up. There are exceptions but not if you desire a proper fillet weld. With the 6011 try about ninety to one hundred amps, electrode negative. Your rod should be horizontal to tipped upward to ten degrees. Start a puddle then lift the tip up the joint about 3/8th inch then back down into the puddle. Continue the up and down motion building on the puddle each time you move down back into the cooling puddle. There are pattern motions for heavier beads but it is difficult to describe in text only. With 7014 it is a bit more difficult for beginners because of all the flux. You can try vertical down with 7014 but you get minimal buildup. Try electode negative and up around 150 amps. ( hot) You hold your rod about 45 degrees pointing up to the top of the joint then once you strike up you push the rod into the corner and move down quickly in order to stay ahead of the flux that is rolling down on your rod. You end up with a small concave bead. Overhead is actually easier. Hold your stinger with your fist knuckles upward so that slag does not get caught between the fingers of your gloved hand. You can do 14 with a tight bead resting the rod in the corner as you carry it along. Don't bother weaving. Just do a stringer bead. With 6011 you can do that forward backward motion. I use a "J" motion swinging toward the edge of the lapped piece then back onto the main piece. The edge of the lapped piece needs less heat. this motion prevents that melting over. It is pretty hard to describe motions and speed in text. there are many good textbooks that provide graphics. Modern Welding comes to mind. Lincoln Electric's Procedure Handbook is also good. Randy

"acrobat-ants" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Reply to
Randy Zimmerman

wear leather underwear

Reply to
Portly Stout

thanks guys,

would It be any easier using MIG or flux for overhead, or does the stick welder have any advantage in this matter.

for the vertical I need to use vertical down because vertical part is only 3 inch tall and strats from the "ceiling", so going vertical uptilting the ctick 10 degree is not possible.

here is an other crazy questi>>

Reply to
acrobat-ants

No you can do a vertical up from a corner. That ten degree thing is not written in stone. Use your left hand and rest the rod between thumb and forefinger like shooting pool. You will see a lot of old hands with their left glove all burned to rat---t. I prefer stick out of position but then that is where I started. Others use wire feed out of position regularly. Randy

Reply to
Randy Zimmerman

i agree.

Reply to
Nathan W. Collier

Maybe you misunderstood Randy. The electrode tip will be 10 degrees higher than the holder, therefore on a vertical up, the tip will hit the ceiling first.

The "question" is worded as phrase but if I understand you right, you *can* hold the electrode for steadiness... until it gets too hot! By then it has shortened and you don't need the extra support anyway. On overhead, many will stick the rod in the end of the holder and bend the it to their desired angle so their hands are more out of the way of hot falling slag. This does bust some of the flux off, but oh well. You will experience "rain from hell" so be sure to stand somewhere other than under the weld and button up and make sure your shoes don't have pockets that can hold liquid beads of metal. If there's a place on your body that the metal can hide while cooling off, you'll know it.

Reply to
Zorro

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