Problems chipping 6011 slag

I tried some 7018AC and 6011 electrodes in welding class today. I normally
use 6013 (Lincoln Fleetweld 37) supplied by the school. It works very well
but I wanted to try something different. I was very surprised to find the
7018AC easy to use. The arc was smooth and the bead looked beautiful
(similar in appearance to 6013). The slag was very easy to chip off--easier
than 6013, especially on a T-joint. But the 6011 was a different story.
First, it made a very loud buzzing noise (kind of like AC TIG aluminum
welding). The bead penetrated the metal well, but was unsmooth in
appearance. The main problem was removing the slag. I had to literally
pound the weld with all my might. And even then some slag remained on the
surface. I'm not talking about slag trapped in a hole, but rather slag on
the surface of the weld. I was using a Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC. 3/32"
Lincoln Fleetweld 180 6011 rod from a new, sealed box. 1/4" mild steel.
Flat weld. Lincoln recommended 70 amps--which I tried--but I also tried
from 25 to 150 amps. Same problem. The class only has one AC/DC stick
welder--the rest are AC only. I did most of the welds using AC but I tried
the DC welder when it became available. Both straight and reverse polarity.
There was very little difference. I can't figure out what I did wrong. Any
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6011 is usually a pain to chip clean, unless you get really good at the whipping motion needed to make pretty welds with it.
If you get the whip down, then the flux comes off much easier.
The whip is that you start a puddle, then whip the electrode along the path of the weld about 3/4", and back about 5/8". If you keep doing this along the weld you get very even ripples about 1/8" apart. The trick is to not break your arc. Just whip it along the weld seam without lifting it, and then back to the puddle, but a little further along the seam. This allows the puddle to freeze between whips.
It is also how to use 6011 vertical up.
Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler
Yup, that's 6011 - looks ugly, sticks tight, but it's the bees knees for getting good penetration on less than pristine metal. I guess I need to try some 6010 one of these days, since I do have DC, but 6011 is the repair rod of choice around here (probably because the 5 credits of welding I took in college did not have many DC capabale stick machines available).
Reply to
Like Ernie said if you get it right the flux comes off easily. Just dragging the point of your chipping hammer over the bead will take the glass off. The flux is very thin and unless you are doing really critical work bits and pieces of it here and there is no big deal. 1/8th rod might be easier for a beginner to manipulate. Randy
Reply to
Randy Zimmerman
I have been taking a welding class also; here's what I have learned about the 6010/6011 rods: As you have discovered, the slag is hard to chip and the rods penetrate the metal deeply. If you simply try to run a bead, you will not get a good joint at all; as Ernie said, you need to learn a "stitch" or "whip" motion that builds up a series of even ridges.
One key point that I have learned is that 6010/6011 is not meant to be used for the only or final pass. Instead, its function is to lay down the foundation --because it is good at penetrating and closing up any poor fits. I have been taught that after welding with 6010/6011, you grind off the ridges to provide a smooth (relatively smooth, that is) foundation for a "hot pass" using 7018. Depending on the joint needed, additional passes with 7018 may be required. The grinding process seems to take care of a lot of the 6010/6011 slag.
Keep in mind that I am repeating what I have (recently) been taught--if I am sharing mis-information, I am sure that others on this board will correct my mistakes!
Reply to
Andy Wakefield
"AL" wrote in news:22Esb.187962$e01.694475@attbi_s02:
When you are burning 6010/6011 there should not be much slag at all, if your are using proper technic and amperages. You don't even need to "hit" it with a chipping hammer. Find yourself an old, dull, big file. Grind a bevel on one edge. You can use this as a scraper to lightly drag across the weld, and use it to scrape off "dingle berries". Both these rods will produce smooth, pretty beads, as well as any other SMAW electrode. It just takes proper use of the electrode/amperages, and the skill level needs to be up to par to get "smooth" beads from either of these two electrodes. They are a "quick freeze/deep pen" electrode, and any imperfection in your movements are "quickly" -frozen in iron/time- to be seen. I notice you are in school, I imagine to learn the trade. If you practice with both 6010 and 6011,(3/32,1/8,5/32) in all positions, till you *CAN* run a smooth bead with both these rods, all the other SMAW electrodes will "fall like a house of cards" as you practice and attempt to conquer them. The 6010/6011 SMAW electrodes are the rods to "master" first, because if you do, the other electrodes are a piece of cake to get a grip on, IF you have practiced to the point that you *can* run a "smooth" bead with these rods. There are several techniques used with this rod also. I see Ernie has mentioned one of the others further up the thread.
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I didn't catch the 3/32" rod in the original post. 3/32" is real easy to run too hot. When you do it is hard to get nice looking welds as the second half of the rod starts to slough off and the slag is all over the place. The AC buzz box welders seem to have poor numbering on the lower heats and the big welders uncalibrated at the bottom end but try something like 60 to 70 amps.
AL wrote:
Reply to
I can't comment on 6011 but I've burned tons of 6010, 7010 and 8010 and Kruppt is right on all counts. It is used to make pure d beautifull welds by those that use it for a living, and slag should be light, and very easily removed. It is a poor, missunderstood consumable in many parts .
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