Painted a Wilton machinist vise, maybe it is nuts.

Now Igor got me on the track to clean up and paint my large bench vice. Once done, I'll post pictures.

Mart>

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I, for one, would be interested. Have you decided on the color yet?

i

Yep -

I got a tall can of zinc and two cans of hammered copper.

It sits outdoors but under a 20' deep cover - mid through. I want to build a better base for it, the one Dad had in the last house was an old light table of shorts. I'd like to make a table that will hold an anvil on one end and the vice on the other. While not a blacksmith, an anvil is handy from time to time. I've been known to cut metal with a hammer and chisel.

In the shop already:

I have blue, yellow, green, hammered green, gray - oh - hammered gray in my "Invincible" Navy desk. Gray with Gray linoleum top in metal and a wood one as well. Both WW II age and going nicely. The wood one was fine Mahogany but now has (before me) one lock down drawer with a plywood front. The steel desk has big holes where the lock down bar was put in. The wood one painted with machine gray. Drill press is machine green. Sheldon in machine gray. etc. Oh - the two surface grinders in green.

But I still like those used in Grants shop! I have to clean some of mine, but for the most part not bad.

Martin

Mart> >> Now Igor got me on the track to clean up and paint my large bench vice.

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are those brass soft jaws?!

-mark in ottawa (with snow dumps still melting)

Will probably last you forever.

Yep. My own anvil, is a railroad rail with a flat piece of 4140 welded to the top. It useful for straightening things.

i

A heavy section of log makes a better base for a real anvil. The top should be about knuckle height for heavy work. I like mid-chest height for lighter jobs such as driving out pins, maybe because that's where my eyes focus best.

I have several from a heavy main line chunk 3' long to a light rail one that is actually ancient due to the pock marks all over it - and the lower grade of steel. It must be near 100 years old or more!

Dad has a short length of massive rail from Chicago I suspect : rail yards into the Wire Works of Western Electric. It has a bronze solder point on the base. It seems to be of unique grade as I have never seen rust on it. Might be an oxide.

Martin

Mart> >> Yep -

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I understand that from some time ago. I won't likely be making leaves or pounding much on it - it is a work place, not my place of work.

I agree, an anvil with wedge blocks (on the sides) bolting downward and the log banded with luck.

I'd have to dig a deep pier and get rid of the clay layers and fill with heavy rock or concrete.

Martin

Mart> >>> I'd like to make a table that will

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That's said to be the ideal for a blacksmith. I use a small 0-1-8 Wilkinson anvil mostly for typical household cold forming, 1/8" strap iron and the like, mounted on an 18" high by 12" diameter oak log. It's heavy enough to bend steel up to ~1/4" thick cold, and light enough to carry outdoors to work on long pieces. If you bolted up a similar base out of 4X4 post cutoffs etc, it could be a little wider for stability when pounding sideways to finish a right-angle bend. Loops for hammers and tongs are handy if it stays in one place but interfere with carrying it.

Before I found it (in a friend's garage) I used railroad rail and a

40Lb rectangular counterweight from a brake (?). The counterweight made a better anvil than the rail because it has square edges to bend sheet metal over. A piece of heavy round stock turned tapered substitutes well for the anvil's horn, which isn't really round enough to expand one ring or tube end to fit over another snugly.

The trade-school students used the tailstock spindle of my lathe as an anvil.

Jim Wilkins