I have a chance to buy a Wilton 3037 cold saw. The guy wants 500.00 for it and it is a three phase model. He said he wasn't impressed with it for cutting 2-3" shafts but it was good for tubing and such. Opinions?
Wilton Cold saw opinion
Jan 15, 2007
15 Replies
A lot depends on what shape it's in. Make sure you find out if parts are still available, manual, etc. because someday you may be rebuilding the gearbox in that thing.
GWE
Sounds reasonable if it is in a good shape.
iI would jump on it today at that price. Its a 12", 2hp or so, european made saw- probably italian or german, which are the best. Wilton no longer sells that model- they have a whole new line of cold saws, which look like they may be made in Taiwan. They never made these saws in the USA, instead they bought european ones and rebadged em, just like all the old Wilton drill presses that were really either Strands or Arboga's, from Spain or Sweden.
New, this saw was probably 3500 bucks or more- 500 is a screaming deal.
I have a similar sized german cold saw, and while it certainly WILL cut
2" or 3" solid round, for everyday, production cutting of that sized material, you would really want a much heavier, much more expensive, industrial sized bandsaw.But for general shop use, up to 1" round and square, 2" square tubing, pipe, and so on, the Wilton ought to be plenty fast enough, and give very accurate, smooth square cuts.
Grant, Isn't this exactly what you were looking for a few days ago?
Karl
I have a decent bandsaw but deburring the razor sharp edges it leaves is a bitch. The fellow thinks it is Italian made. I think I am going to buy it but the Wilton site does not list the 3037 as being supported for parts. Steve
Yup.
How so? Zip around the part with the roto-reamer (or equivalent - twist-a-burr, etc). The right tool (IME) makes the job easy.
The italians make very good cold saws. As far as parts go, I wouldnt worry too much- my cold saw is a mere 20 years or so old, and so far no sign of it needing anything- these things are built pretty tough.
A cold saw will usually leave less of a burr than a bandsaw, but especially on the inside of tubing, there will still be some burr. No way around that, short of a laser, that I know of.
That's a ripoff. What's the seller's contact info? :)
Telephone BR549
You dont own a Noga deburring tool? Or a clone? Best thing since sliced bread.
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"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin
Dang! Another thing to buy......I should have never started reading this newsgroup. Steve
Chuckle..I think Ive got at least 6 or more of these, one on every machine in the shop, and the chamfering ones on the drill presses for taking off the burr on drilled holes. Plus at least 2 in my daily tool box. Some of the clones are pretty good, some are utter crap.
Gunner
"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin
Gunner, does the scraper style work well on the outside of thin tubing like exhaust tubing or would you suggest something different? Curt
Other than a big assed chamfering tool in a drill motor? Nope..they work just hunky dory on thin tubing too. Particularly on that nasty knife edged burrs you can get from using a cutoff wheel. Outside works fine too..but is a bit harder to hold it against the OD and do it fast.
For thin stuff like exhaust tubing..I use a sheet metal deburring tool..looks kinda like one of those knife sharpeners with a pair of round gizmos that you put the metal between. Or grab a Noga (or clone)
Gunner
"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin
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