question : overlay build up on cast iron

I need to build up some hydraulic pistons that are

A : 25 inches in diameter @ 76 inches circumference

B: 30-35 year old cast iron { most likely really good quality , sparks like mild steel }

C; the overlay is for the purpose of reducing seal clearance

D: options 1 tig overlay silicone bronze , yuck will take forever

2 spray metalize don't trust it 3 mig weld 99% nickel I like this idea a lot as the finished thickness of the overlay will be between .090 and .125

questions ? can I get 99% nickel wire?

what about preheat and post heat? casting weighs about 4500

overlay of some sort is my only option due to time constraints any help appreciated

Reply to
williamhenry
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Can you machine it down in the seal area then either shrink or weld a steel (or other material) tire to it? You'd have to post-machine, of course, but you had to do that anyway.

Reply to
Tim Wescott

I might give that a try but I think I am going to have to overlay it

Reply to
williamhenry

I would seriously investigate welding with aluminum bronze welding wire using a wire feed welder. You are going to need some sort of rolls or axle drive unit and a source of heat for post and preheat. A hundred pound tank of propane and a weed burner should do the trick. If you have some sort of power rolls you likely could clamp your gun in position and just monitor buildup as it sits above the rotating piston. The reason I suggest aluminum bronze is its ease of machining and the ability to put a superior material on using a semiautomatic process. If you build up with nickel alloy I am sure the cost would be comparable and if you developed a hard spot you would not like to be near the machinist when he discovers it. The alloy has been used to build up bearing slide surfaces on cast iron and the amount of admixture with the iron is minimal. You don't need as much preheat. My guess is around 300 F. should be more than plenty. I am sure that if you made an enquiry the supplier should have some suggestions on the use of this alloy. It is going to cost a bundle for the wire. You might ask if it is wise to machine the area to ensure a proper bond and remove trace oil.. I know Ernie has used this wire. I have only seen it demonstrated and ran a short bead. The stuff went on like butter. Randy

Reply to
Randy Zimmerman

Try Belzona Super-metal.

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It is an epoxy overlay used for build up of large shafts and cylinders. Amazing stuff. Not cheap, but really good.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

If this sparks like steel, there's at least a possibility that it is a cast steel. If it's cast iron you might have some trouble with the oil in it, but if it's steel it'll be a gravy job.

Generally, if you can torch cut a ferrous alloy with a torch it'll weld nicely with most rod (except, IIRC, manganese steel, but I'd be surprised to see manganese steel inside a hydraulic cylinder..). Nick 'er with a torch and see how it goes, you gotta build it up anyway.. that's how I'd approach it.

John

Reply to
JohnM

well we welded up the first one today , used 12 pounds 99 nickel wire

the 35 lb roll was 900.00

did a little machining to see about hard spots, machined really nice , I went ahead and undercut a full eighth of an inch to minimize hardening at my weld surface

I had night shift put the " toaster " a modified oven resistance burner , under the piston and set it on med low as the shaft spun overnight in the big lathe we do this work in , this morning it was a nice three hundred twenty degrees , proceeded to weld it up after a good cleaning with acetone and a little more pre heat , after welding two strips half inch wide all the way around the whole casting only raised up to 525 its cooling now , will finish machine tomorrow

would like a specific vendor for the aluminum bronze though

Reply to
williamhenry

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