Re: Welding on a compressor tank :-(

I was thinking overnight. If the issue is fatigue from vibration, what if I take the motor and pump off, set them up somewhere else, weld and test the tank, and use it as air receiver tank at a slightly lower pressure (say, 120-150 PSI).

Then further fatigue will not be an issue, as there will not be further vibration.

Reply to
Ignoramus335
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You can make a nice BBQ from an air tank.

Reply to
Stupendous Man

Iggy, we all like to save a buck. But sometimes you just have to do the right thing. Existing fatigue crack and pressure vessel sounds like any repair is the wrong thing to do. Salvage the pump, use the tank for a BBQ grill.

Just take the tank out beh> I was thinking overnight. If the issue is fatigue from vibration, what

Reply to
RoyJ

A good hydro test should restore your confidence

Reply to
nadogail

How long is the crack?

You should be able to weld repair a small vibration crack in the upper area of a tank, with little or no danger to the overall integrity of the tank.

If in doubt, fill it with water, and test it to 5/3 or double the operating pressure of the tank.

But their should be no need to derate the operating pressure of the tank, or move the motor and compressor. If you want to reduce the possibility of the crack returning, mount the motor and compressor and a separate plate, and rubber mount the plate back to the tank in the same location. You would also want to add a flex hose between the compressor and the tank.

Reply to
Edwin Lester

Not if it's fatigued, and it probably is. A hydro test won't tell you how much fatigue life is left on the tank.

Taking the pump off certainly will help, but it sounds like false economy to me. Fatigue is nasty stuff, hard to detect and impossible to repair.

-- Ed Huntress

Reply to
Ed Huntress

I have very little confidence in old compressors because they generally (999 times out of 1,000) were never drained, or were never used with a water trap. Once it starts leaking, it's easier, faster, and cheaper to just buy another. The only thing I would trust is to roll the tank with ball bearings, flush, dry, and endoscope to inspect the inside, particularly the bottom where the water has sat for years.

If the OP does cut the tank open, I'd be curious about a report of inner condition and corrosion.

STeve

Reply to
SteveB

Approximately 2 inches.

Which was my plan.

The hose is copper. I think that this plan may be workable, I will sit on it for a day or so.

Reply to
Ignoramus335

Steve, the tank is not leaking from the bottom, it is cracked on top.

Reply to
Ignoramus335

If you don't remount the motor and compressor on some kind of resilient mount, the original copper tube should still be fine.

Reply to
Edwin Lester

how many ignoramuses are there here? well I stay at sci. engr....... do you have lots of email addresses/user names?

What if the issue could be considered a design defect instead of a vibration crack. Or a defect in original workmanship. re design or and do better workmanship.

I know a friend who had a commercial welder cut out and put in a new pipe thread fitting for the drain spigot at the bottom of a tank. So some folks with liability issues will weld on tanks.

Fran

Reply to
fran...123

The obvious answer is weld the tank, and then bury it deep enough so that if/when it explodes, no one gets hurt......

Reply to
David Lesher

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