It hasn't arrived yet, i am shopping a main welder still. I am confused about using the RW as a spoolgun, I thought it wanted a CC welder, yet I read the RW site and manual and get the impression it works better from a CV welder. Those of you who have run one, what makes a better power suppy, AC/DC SMAW, AC/DC TIG, or a MIG machine?
Doesn't matter. The electronics in the gun will compensate for the type of power supply your connected to. When you get the gun, you also get a small power pack that will run the gun from 120VAC outlet. If you have to have an order of preference then shoot for the MIG supply first.
I personally have run mine from batteries or a Lincoln Square Wave 175 in DC Stick mode. My next challenge is to get it to behave with a Hobart Ironman 210.
The main difference is that on a CC power source, your arc length has a profound affect on your arc voltage. So you have to learn to maintain a very consistent wire stick-out. On a CV machine it is much more forgiving.
I have been leaning towards going the cheap route and buying an AC/DC Lincoln tombstone,, they go for just under $400, but I already have an AC stick unit. I can TIG at work, and seldom need that kind of nice weld on my home projects, so the Hobart Ironman 210 is currently #1 on the list at $1088. By not using the Ready Welder for my primary medium, Steel, i won't wear it out before i need it on the Rubicon or other trails. Are you having trouble getting the gun to work with the Hobart?
Just trying to figure out how to get the contactor to engage and not run the motor in the welder. The normal set up on the Ironman is when you pull the trigger on the gun lead, it engages the internal contactor to make the gun lead hot. This also turns on the wire feed motor internal to the power supply. I don't want to burn out the internal wire feed motor prematurely.
My local dealer is clueless on Hobart equipment. There is a spool gun kit for this machine but all I need is the interface that tells the power supply that a spool gun is hooked up and use remote controls. My next stop is some quality time on hold with tech support hot line and try to sort out what is needed.
I'll keep the group up to date on my progress when I find a solution.
"> My local dealer is clueless on Hobart equipment. There is a spool gun
The Millermatic 210 has some kind of quick-plug built in for the spoolgun, I have sent them an email asking what has to be done to run a Ready Welder from the unit. I will post the reply as well. I see very little difference between the Lincoln 215 and that unit, once you get past "magic" buzzwords like "diamond choke technology". one has a 2 ft longer stinger and a 110V socket, the other has a built-in spoolgun module. Prices are about the same and free shipping can be had from different vendors.
The Miller rep emailed back that he is not familiar with a Ready Welder, and recommended that I spend the $650+ on their spoolgun. Not going to happen. I didn't bother to ask the same question about the Hobart.
To your question above, yes. Just need to know which wires to mess with. They bring 5 into the mix.
After calling around I found this much out. Their is a field kit with a switch to install in the Hobart units. No one seems to be able to find the kit as a seperate purchasable option. Received the updated schematic for my machine along with the operators manual.
From the schematic, two things need to happen. Need to bring out pins 1 and 2 of RC3 connector to a swich. Pins 3, 4, and 5 won't be needed since the Readywelder gun has its own speed control. This will disable the internal wire feed motor.
Second, need to short pins 1 and 2 on the front panel connector (RC2) to force the internal contactor to engage. I may opt for a cable with a switch to strap to the ready welder so the tip is not hot all the time.
I'm not going to have any time to work this for a couple weeks. So consider the above a working theory, not gospel. When I get the parts together I'll report how everything works out.
Just release the tensioner on the wire feeder so it is just spnning free. This should not have any adverse affect on your drive motor and is exactly what I do on my Hobart Betamig 250 when I use my Readywelder on it.
BTW you can rig up a remote contactor switch on the readywelder for your power supply. Just make up a simple on off switch wired to the connections for your MIG gun trigger wires.
My Ready Welder arrived yesterday, and it looks as if the PO only ran about
1/2 of the factory suppplied Aluminum spool thru it, and didn't touch the fluxcore. I will test it today. I also ordered a Lincoln Powermig 215 last nite, my local welding vendor (knowing he wasn't getting the sale) told me he has better customer satisfaction with it over the millermatic 210. $1320 online.