soaking electrodes with water

Oct 06, 2006 9 Replies

in the other thread (Drying 6013 electrodes) someone mentioned that soaking cellulose rod in watter allows you to do all sorts of stuff, including cutting thick metal.



my question is how thick? I have an old railroad rail i use for an anvil and would like to drill some mounting holes for it and cut a horn on one end. I dont have a good drill bit and i'd hate to see what i'd have to do to use the angle crinder with cutting wheels for the horn. would 6013 soaked in water do the trick?



I know i could take it someplace where they could torch it and such, but I am thinking more in the knowledge aspect rather than the practicallity of it.



Soaking in water allows the rod to burn a little longer before it turns white hot. What you want can be done, but there will be better ways. The cut is anything but neat!

6011 is the one to use (when I've done it it works well, but I haven't done it often = admit not much experience). 6010 and 6011 are cellulosic = forceful. And they'll soak up water. 3/32nd inch (2.5mm) 6011 rod will easily go through 1/2inch (12mm) plate. Have what you are piercing upright, so the rod is horizontal.

Any advice I have missed for Tater?

Richard S.

"RJ" writes:

If i wanted pretty I'd buy new :)

anyway, as I said, 'tis a thinking project, and i might do it, just to see how it is done. learning skills and all that........

I cut a chunk of railroad track with a rod and an air nozzle. Fired it up hot, and as the metal melted, followed it with a chunk of copper tubing on the end of spray nozzle. Messy, but cut pretty quickly. I angled both AWAY from me..and wore all my leathers. Surprising how well it worked. Made me kinda want a carbon arc gizmo for the thick stuff

Gunner

"A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences."

- Proverbs 22:3

How do these carbon arc torches work, do they pass air through copper clad carbon electrodes? Would they work with a 200 A CC/DC power supply?

i

Almost a plasma torch - heat with the stick rod and blowing away the melt with an air blast.

Good idea on the copper air tube - won't weld shut with splatter...

Oxy-gas is much the same - pouring on the oxy is both blowing and burning.

Hum - a thick a real thick rod - more rod than for the welder size - so it won't melt much and maybe a hard type. They even make cutting rods IIRC.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member

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Gunner wrote:

No and no. They blow air axially down the carbon electrodes, whether copper clad or not (I buy the unclad kind and use 'em for electrodes for electrolytic derustin, at a dime apiece they're a bargain) and you'd typically set them to

450 amps or so.

GWE

That's not true, there is a ton of gouging done at well below 450 amps. I've been around many welders who air arc regularly with 200 amp machines, they use smaller carbons and run at about the same amperage that they run 3/16"

7018. I've also been around guys that gouge all day with Lincoln 600 amp machines maxed out, but that's doing things like removing bed liners from 300 ton haul trucks, for jobs like backgouging a pull pen structural weld, or removing & replacing wear materials a 200 amp engine drive will do very nicely.

JTMcC.

Agreed!

I typically set my machine to 200-250 amps with a 1/4 copperclad (TM) for backgouging on 1" plate or heavy Wideflange to do a C.P. (complete penetration) weld. Some of the welders like to crank the 600amp machines up to max for gouging but I find that at that high an amperage it just uses up the gouging rods too quickly. 450 amps or higher should be used on large carbonarc rods.

With the proper technique high amperages are not necessary to do the job and only serve to waste the gouging rods!

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