TIG question, on stainless, (Ernie?)

Yea, the tungsten particles you introduce to your weld metal when the two touch are very hard, much harder than the 304L, and therefore provide preferential sites for cracks to initiate. In most applications this isn't a big deal, however, it is definitely detrimental to the quality of your weld.

Mark Lorenz Manufacturing Engineer Honeywell Sensotec Columbus, OH 43228

Yeah, what he said.

So what is the strategy for keeping the bead and HAZ very tight on stainless. What I want to duplicate is this look and appearance:

I think that these are welded by hand using no or very little filler, but I can't duplicate the tiny beads...

Brian

from the picture it may look like it was mig welded. hard to tell, would have to see it closer. if it was TIG welded it should not be too hrad to weld, you are dealing with a fairly thin material. exhaust pipes like that shoul be no thicker than 1/32 or 1/16 tops

I would use the corresponding tungsten and filler rod, the biggest issue is fit up on those pipe. if you have gaps MIG would be much easier and faster.

just my oppinion.

Those are just pulsed TIG welds. Easy.

Set your amps a little higher than normal when using a pulser.

I would set up a simple TIG as such: DCEN HF Start Argon at 12 CFH

1/16" 1.5% Lanthanated tungsten. gas lens collet body #8 gas cup Extend tungsten 3/8" 20 - 25 degree included angle on tungsten 0.045" filler . Back purge the tubes at 20 cfh

Amperage would be 1 amp per 0.001" of thickness. Subtract 1/3 for stainless steel. Add a little if using a pulser.

Pulse settings would be: Background amps 40% On time 40% Pulses-per-sec 1.2

it seems to me that the stainless deposits on the tungsten , not the tunsten into the pool. it makes a Q-tip out of the electrode.

you may be reffering when the tungsten is frozen into the weldpool and you have to break it off.

am I wrong ?