TIG vs. MIG

Hi everyone. I'm just learning TIG welding (I have no prior experience with any welding whatsoever) and wanted to know the pros and cons of TIG vs. MIG welding.

I see that MIG equipment is much much cheaper than TIG setups and am curious as to the differences and benefits of each.

Also, I'm out of work and think that maybe switching to a career such as welding would be good. Do I need to take some formal classes? Are there welding certifications that I can/should get?

Your help is appreciated,

rvb (rvb at houston dot roadrunner dot com)

Reply to
rvb
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Here's a brief article with some highlights:

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I would think that if you want to make a living of it, and want to excel at it so that you get paid well, you would want to take formal classes, throw yourself whole heartedly into the learning process, and also learn as much metallurgy and fabrication skills as you can along the way. Certs are available. I'm sure the guys who make a living by welding can comment further on this topic.

-dseman

Reply to
Joe Smith

MIG is faster, easier, and cheaper, but also it is less flexible as to materiel, and can make good looking weak welds.

TIG is slower, more precise, causes less distortion, but requires a much higher level of skill.

Actually you can set up a basic DC TIG for $500, bu yes you can get decent MIG machines for much less than most TIG packages.

If you plan on doing it for a job, then yes you should get formal training. Hobbiests can fudge around and learn stuff on their own, but for a job you need to learn industry standard terms and systems.

It depends on what you plan on welding. It is up to an employer to state what certs they require if any. If they require it for the job, then they should pay for the test.

There are some "pre-qualification" certs that are portable from job to job. In that case you pay for the cert test and just make sure somebody signs your card every 3 months.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Wow! Where? I haven't seen any for less than like $1800. I must be looking in the wrong places.

Reply to
rvb

you can get miller 180sd for around $1500 !!

Reply to
Kryptoknight

Uhhhh is that good?!

Reply to
rvb

Also, what does it take to get a water-cooled setup. The guy that was teaching me has his torches water-cooled which means they can run all day long, right? What's involved with setting them up to be water-cooled?

rvb

Reply to
rvb

No just thinking the wrong way. Any DC Stick welder can be used to TIG weld. All you have to add is a torch, flow gauge, and gas bottle. You don't even need high frequency for DC TIG, just use a scratch start.

It will not be a fully functioned TIG machine, like a Syncrowave 250, but it will work, and you can TIG aluminum with DC as well.

Here is a kit that can convert any stick welder into a TIG machine

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Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

A water cooled torch and a water cooler. Or A line from a shop sink and a return line that dumps back to the sink.

I use the shop sink in my shop. I have a water filter hooked up in line so the torch head stays clean, but it is just so much cheaper and simpler than a water cooler. It goes through maybe 2 gallons of water an hour.

A lot of shops used to do this, and that is why there are water solenoid valves on many old TIG machines.

If you do use a shop sink as your water cooler, please use a water filter to keep sediment from building up in the torch head.

A water cooled torch has 3 cables. A gas line for the Argon. A water-in line that supplies water to the torch head. A power/water-out line that supplies electical currrent to the torch while being cooled by the returning water.

A water power block is attached to the output stud of your welding machine. The water/power-out line hooks to one side of the water block, and the return line to your water cooler or sink goes from the other side of the block.

If the water stops for any reason while you are welding above 100 amps the power/water-out line will melt from the heat of the conductor cable.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Reply to
David Todtman

Ernie,

Have you (or anyone else out there) used this kit? How well does it work?

Also (I'm asking this so as to reveal my ignorance!) how does the AC on an AC TIG machine differ from the AC on a buzz box? In other words, why can't this kit be used in AC mode as well as DC?

Thanks,

Andy

Reply to
Andy Wakefield

Because to use AC for TIG you need a continuous high frequency generator. You can add these to a stick welder for an additional cost, but unless you get one cheap you have entered the cost range of a used older TIG. And you still don't have a foot pedal or thumbwheel for remote contactor or amperage control.

On DC you can get away with scratch start, but not for AC. Also buzzbox stick welders are only putting out sine-wave AC. Most TIGs output square-wave AC, which is much more efficent, and effective. On a buzzbox you are better off using a huge tungsten and DCEP for aluminum.

The kit is very simple and will work just fine. If you use a Miller Maxstar 140 ro 150 you are basically using the same setup, since your gas valve is on your torch handle.

You can TIG with a $500 setup or a $5000 setup. The differences will be in the control and versatility of the system, and how well it does aluminum.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

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