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TIG with a buzzbox

All I've read on the subject of doing TIG with an AC welder says it can be done, but there really isn't more than that on the subject. Books usually move on to dedicated machines and their related processes. I planned on just getting started out with the HF unit or something from ebay so that if it doesn't turn out well enough for me I'm not out much. As far as DC, I have considered putting a heavy rectifier on my buzzbox, and was also thinking of doing some kind of SCR/TRIAC input modification to the welder to allow finer current control, but first things first. Could I be let in on what the key things that need to be known in order to do this? I've always revered TIG, but never had the opportunity to be trained how to do it, and this seems like a workable idea to me.

Reply to
carl mciver
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I'll let someone else deal with the TIG and comment on the DC part. I've run across the required 200 amp/150 volt(or more) diodes in my suprlus store travels, usually run around $10 each, need 4 to do a bridge. Someone on the NG has some for a couple bucks less, I might be able to find his e-mail address (if he doesn't chime in!) Then you need 4 heavy duty heat sinks and some standoffs. If you have some big triacs you might be able to use them. Keep in mind that arc welding has some NASTY transients in both the voltage and current departments.

I figured it would cost $50 to get my buzz box to DC, still haven't gotten around to it. Higher priority is a 3 hp phase converter, spent the afternoon balancing the caps that rig.

Cheers.

carl mciver wrote:

Reply to
RoyJ

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Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

I bought the buzzbox conversion from the site Ernie mentioned here a couple of weeks ago,

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All I need to do is sheet metal work, and I was absolutely amazed at the results. Like Ernie said, theres really no good way to start/end you weld beyond yanking the torch away from the metal.

It takes your 220v AC/DC box and uses only one side of the input,

110v, which results in fairly fine control. My first few attempts were rather crude, but the more I play with it, the better looking (and stronger) the welds get.

I already had the buzzbox, and I ended up right at $400 with the argon and kit. I see on the TIG handbook area at

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that I should not be using normal oxyacetelene filler rods for TIG welding. Hmmm.... do welding supply shops carry the GTAW rods Miller mentions on their site? My assumption is that these rods will have a smaller amount of oxygen in them than OA filler rods. Any ideas?

After reading about it in here, I tried a normal coat hanger and was surprised at how good they came out !

Thanks,

del

Reply to
del

The typical welding supply house has TIG GTAW filler rods of all sorts. Typically of several sizes of various alloys.

Gas rods are say for the argument 12" long. Tig filler is 36" or 72" long. For us short is just fine, however the pro's just hang the long rod over their shoulder and feed it through the torch.

Martin

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

Steel filler rod for gas welding is called RG45 or RG60. Steel filler for TIG is called ER70S-2, and should be available everywhere. The 2 are not really interchangeable. Oh you could use them but the welds will not be their best. TIG filler used with gas welding tends to stick to the puddle a lot. Gas filler used for TIG can cause some porosity problems.

Porosity is the technical term for steel oxide foam. It looks like tiny bubbles in your weld.

Reply to
stagesmith

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