Welding an engine block

Hi everyone,
Have any of you had any success welding on an engine block? The engine is a Perkins diesel in a Hyster forklift. The crack is in the cooling jacket of
the block.
Thanks, Shawn
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"Shawn" <shawn_75ATcomcastDOTnet> wrote:

Grind surface clean, V out crack, drill ends.
Get 99% or 95% nickle rod.
Weld in short stiches, peening each stich starting with it still red hot, continue peening until cold. If the workpiece starts getting hot, take a break until it is cool. Peening stretches the nickle so that it does not shrink as it cools and cause further cracks.
--
Cats, Coffee, Chocolate...vices to live by

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I wanted to clarify for the OP that I think Ecnerwal meant the common nickel electrodes 99% or 55%. I thought that the NiRod would run cooler than say 7018 and therefore needed less current but found this good pdf on the subject. http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/c810.pdf Take the info with a grain of salt. Any discrepancies can be cleared up here on the NG. One thing they say that contradicts what I've learned here is the article says to v-grind all the way to the bottom of the crack. That may be counterproductive on thin sections. Your diesel water jacket may have bunches of extra metal to play with so your mileage may vary.

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Thanks for the link, it proved very informative.
Regarding the engine block, the crack is about 8" long and goes thru two thick "webs" which are about 3/4" wide and ~1/2" thick. I haven't done any grinding yet but I suppose the thinner sections are ~ 1/4" thick.
Is Oxy-Acetylene brazing an option here or does an engine block go through too many thermal stresses for it to hold?
Shawn
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Brazing is an execellent fix for cast iron **IF** you can preheat the whole piece. In your case, you won't be able to get the whole block up to the necessarey 600F temp. Back to the high nickle rod. Short bead, peen, take a coffe break, repeat. Should take you several hours to do your 8" repair.
Shawn wrote:

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