Salvage corroded copper power connector?

I read in sci.electronics.design that DaveC wrote (in ) about 'Salvage corroded copper power connector?', on Fri, 15 Apr 2005:

Grease, preferably that copper-loaded stuff you can get for car battery lugs. Don't use too much.

Dave Clean electrodes with fine emery cloth. Smear throughout with Vaseline. It will delay corrosion.

There are several brands of dielectric grease that you can use to keep the brass from corroding. I use LPS #1 or 2 sprayed on lightly to keep most of my electrical components that are exposed to the elements from corrosion. You can also use anti-corrosion grease, sold in tubes at most auto supply stores. Just apply a thin coat with a Q-tip. If the tool is exposed to extreme weather such as marine you might want to have the contacts gold plated or at least silver cadded.

Don't we use tinning to lightly or promptly ... they'd have to be really corroded before i'd re-tin them~~~~~ but as available they may be.,if those grumbled up ones have good service history, why trashem?

you want to preserve the brass/copper finish as close to specification., coating them up with anything less conductive than the contacts material may grow over their surface.......and produce a loose or restrict electrical conn

nothing ! I'd just resurface them with mild metal grade sandpaper, use any tools material handling compond on them, even brasso=AE, it leaves them sharp on point and shiney to the eye.

OR/AND until i could get new ones };-)

=AEoy

Another Empty Mansion ?

Best Wishes, Attentively };-) Roy Q. T.

A thin coating of grease, such as like that is used on car batteries will usually stop corrosion.

How about tinning with silver-content electrical solder?

On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 02:05:25 -0700, Jim Gregory wrote (in article ):

Vaseline, being a grease (and insulator), impedes current flow, no? Why are so many folks recommending a non-conductive grease? (As always, I presume I'm missing something, and have something to learn...)

The reason for greasing contacts is to keep oxygen away from them, preventing corrosion. The pressure of the contacts will displace the grease and allow current to flow. I know it sounds iffy, but it works. It's especially useful on cars for corrosion-prone things like headlight connectors, tail light sockets, battery posts, and ground lugs.

There's special grease sold for this called "dielectric grease", but for your application Vaseline will work fine. The grease is deliberately

*not* made conductive, because that could cause shorts on multi-conductor connectors. (A "dielectric" is an insulator -- think of a capacitor dielectric.)

Dissolve a little baking soda in warm water and soak the cable in that or pour over it. That should neutralize any acid.

All greases and lubricants are not equal. Don't let "Hypoy" or any form of extreme pressure gear lubricant anywhere near it. Those are designed to keep metal surfaces apart.

On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 16:33:39 -0700, NSM wrote (in article ):

The cause of the corrosion is due to the drill being stored in a damp environment for a short while, not acid.

Is the baking soda technique still appropriate?

yes.

With a base, copper will cease to corrode, having formed a protective coating (salt?).

There's an anti-oxidant grease that's even better, (designed for the joint between copper and aluminum wiring, I think. One of last century's really bad ideas). Ilsco De-Ox is the tube I have, but I've seen it under different labels. Magic stuff if you've got a flashlight where the batteries leaked and other large cruded up wiring.

For more delicate stuff, there's the oxide remover flavor/color of Cramolin. (I can't remember if it's Red or Blue). Or its US counterpart, Caig Lab's DeOxit.

Mark Zenier snipped-for-privacy@eskimo.com Washington State resident

Good point. I hadn't thought of that.

When the connector is mated the grease is pushed aside. It is a "fluid" without solids, other than possibly some copper flakes, and the grease won't keep the connector parts from contacting each other. What it will do is keep oxygen from the exposed surfaces.

I wouldn't try the solder coating suggestion. I've tried that with brass, and to my chagrin, found that the soldering temp completely annealed the connector, rendering it useless.

Live and learn....

-

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Spray thee contacts with a bit of silicone lub or spray. That should do the trick

--jj

I've tried solder-plating things, and it turns out that that thin layer of tin oxide is a very annoying insulator.

Good Luck! Rich

I agree with the vaseline method after you clean the conacts and connect the wires though, not just over the contacts.

perhaps tinning in this case isn't easy or best practice..... if it's really ruined I'd splice in a new connector with heatshrink tubing. if it is the battery terminals that are gone, I'd salvage them once and get a new one...... on standby.

=AEoy

On Mon, 18 Apr 2005 08:33:10 -0700, Roy Q.T. wrote (in article ):

It's #4. The terminals are incorporated in the switch. $27. That's a down payment on a new drill.