Just finished my first bracket print—a few observations

Oct 30, 2026 Last reply: 19 hours ago 3 Replies
Jump to replies (3)

Decided to fix a failing mounting bracket for my action camera instead of buying a new one. It was getting stressed in its original metal housing so I figured scanning it up would be the fastest fix. I used my portable scanner and focused on capturing the complex geometry of the clips and mounting points. I went slow with the settings to make sure all the little tolerances were right since this piece had to fit perfectly into a pre-drilled hole.



After the mesh was cleaned up and combined, I sent the files to the resin printer. It was cool watching the layers build up, especially since the part needed to be very sturdy. The ABS-like material worked well for the stress points, but I did have to carefully sand down some of the internal seams where the resin cured, which took a while.



The final product fits perfectly and feels much more solid than the original cheap plastic component. It's satisfying to get these little mechanical problems solved with a scanner and printer setup. Definitely feels like a solid upgrade for the whole rig.


I went thru somthing almost exactly like that a while back when I was working on a shelf for a rack of hard drives. I wasn't fixing a broken part, but I needed to create a custom bracket that would sit flush against a piece of wainscoting and hold a weight. Using my scanner was the only way to get the exact profile needed becuase the existing brackets I bought were just too bulky and didn't match the available space.

I took a diferent swing on this a while back. I wasn't trying to replace a broken piece of hardware, but rather create a custom cradle for an old piece of audio equipment I was trying to safely display. The challenge wasn't the tolerances, but the source quality. Since the wooden base of the receiver was heavily textured and matte, the initial point cloud from my scanner was quite noisy and a little bit fuzzy around the edges.

I spent a good portion of my time in the software cleaning up the mesh, removing those stray data points that were causing little ridges in the final print. Once the file was solid, I decided to use PETG instead of resin because the piece needed to hold significant weight, not just be decorative. I had to adjust the layer height down from the standard 0.2mm to 0.12mm to ensure the critical contact points remained rigid and wouldn't flex under the weight of the equipment.

Printing it was a slow process, but the result was far better than I expected. It gave the piece that solid feel you are looking for, just by using a material with better structural integrity than plastic. It ended up being a much more stable display platform for my setup.

I once tried capturing a specific coupling from an old engine part because the internal threaded section was slightly warped, requiring a very specific key. The challenge wasn't the initial capture quality, but ensuring the scaling factor remained absolutely consistent across the entire mesh before slicing, because even a fraction of a percent off would render the final component unusable for its mechanical purpose. It seemed the software handled it okay, but I ended up manually scaling it in the preparation phase just to be safe. Has anyone found consistent problems with the Z axis distortion when scanning highly irregular cylindrical geometries?

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required